Dubrovnik sits at the southern end of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, a walled city that ran its own affairs for centuries as the Republic of Ragusa. The historic core is closed to cars and completely encircled by fortifications, with the Adriatic on one side and the Dinaric mountains rising directly behind. Together with its walls, the Old Town has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1979.
The Walls of Dubrovnik
The walls are the reason the city looks the way it does, and walking their full circuit is the best orientation Dubrovnik offers. Construction reaches back to the 8th century, the ring standing today was completed by the end of the 17th, and the stones shielded the city one final time during the siege of 1991 to 1992. The circuit lies around the Old Town as tightly as a belt, about two kilometres of parapets, bastions, and towers.
From one of the round bastions I photographed the view across the cove to Fort Lovrijenac, the free-standing fortress on its cliff just outside the western walls, with the red roofs of the town glowing on the other side. When you stand up there, you almost wish the old stones could tell their stories.
The Stradun
This picture was taken at exactly 4:58 in the morning. Rising before the sun is standard procedure for me, and usually I have the world to myself at that hour. Not here. Even before five on a summer morning, the first visitors were already inside the gates, many of them from the cruise ships that call at the harbour.
The wait paid for itself: the Stradun completely empty, its limestone pavement polished to a shine by centuries of feet, reflecting the lanterns down the whole length of the street to the bell tower. The Stradun connects the Pile and Ploče gates and is the city’s main artery; by mid-morning it carries a river of people, and it stays full until after midnight.
Rector’s Palace
The Rector’s Palace was the seat of government of the Republic of Ragusa, and the building has an eventful story to tell. The defensive structure that stood here burnt down in 1435, and its replacement fell victim to explosions and an earthquake before it was finally completed. The city’s Senate met here in the 16th century, and since 1872 the palace has housed a museum of Dubrovnik’s history.
Daria fell in love with the facade, which unites Gothic window tracery, Renaissance arcades, and Baroque details in a single front. I photographed the arcades resting on the shining pavement in the deserted early morning, the way the palace might have looked in its Senate days.
Dubrovnik Cathedral and the Church of St Blaise
From the high sections of the wall walk, the city arranges itself into a skyline: the cathedral dome and the church of St Blaise rising together above the red roofs, the open Adriatic behind them, usually with a single sailboat somewhere on the horizon.
The cathedral was built between 1672 and 1713, after the earthquake of 1667 had levelled its predecessor, and remains the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik. The church of St Blaise honours the city’s patron saint, whose image guarded every gate and fortress of the republic; the present building went up in 1715 on the site of an older church destroyed by fire. Those domes and towers against the turquoise of the sea are a combination I have not found anywhere else, and the wall walk is the only place that shows them stacked like this.
Photographing Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is one of the most photographed cities on the Adriatic, which is exactly the problem to solve. Game of Thrones filmed King’s Landing here, the cruise schedule delivers thousands of visitors by mid-morning, and the Stradun in daylight is a crowd scene.
My answer was the alarm clock. The 4:58 Stradun, the Rector’s Palace before the first tour group, the wall walk as early as the ticket allows. The city that was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979 is still there, unchanged; it just keeps different hours than its visitors do. The stone works for you twice a day, floodlit at night and golden at first light, and both windows belong to whoever gets up for them.
When to Visit Dubrovnik
Summer delivers the full Adriatic promise, warm nights on the Stradun included, but it is also when the cruise traffic sets the rhythm of the Old Town. On days with several ships in port, the streets fill by ten and only empty late in the evening.
May, June, and September keep the sea warm and thin the crowds. Winter hands the city back to its residents: some restaurants close, but the walls, the palaces, and the empty streets photograph beautifully in low sun. Dubrovnik also works well combined with the rest of the coast; the drive from Split takes about four hours, and my Split travel guide covers the other end of that road. The wider country is in my Croatia travel guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Dubrovnik?
May, June, and September combine warm weather and swimmable sea with fewer visitors than the July and August peak. Winter is the quietest season, with some closures but empty streets. Whatever the month, early morning is when the Old Town is at its best.
How many days do you need in Dubrovnik?
Two days cover the essentials at a humane pace: one for the wall circuit and the Old Town’s palaces and churches, one for Fort Lovrijenac, the harbour, and a swim or a boat trip. Day-trippers can see the highlights, but the city belongs to whoever stays for the early morning.
Can you walk the walls of Dubrovnik?
Yes. The circuit is about two kilometres, is ticketed, and takes one to two hours with photo stops. The main entrance is near the Pile Gate. Go at opening time or in the late afternoon in summer, both for the light and to stay ahead of the heat and the crowds.
How do you get to Dubrovnik?
Dubrovnik has an international airport about 20 kilometres from the Old Town. Buses run the coastal road from Split in around four hours, and seasonal catamarans connect the two cities by sea. There is no rail line to Dubrovnik; the bus, boat, or car are the options.
Was Dubrovnik in Game of Thrones?
Yes. The Old Town stood in for King’s Landing through most of the series, with Fort Lovrijenac serving as the Red Keep and the Stradun and city walls appearing in many scenes. Several companies run filming-location walking tours, and the sites are all inside or beside the walled core.
How do you avoid the cruise crowds?
Check the port schedule and plan around it: mornings before nine and evenings after seven belong mostly to overnight guests. The wall walk at opening time and the Stradun before sunrise are reliably quiet. On multi-ship days, use the middle of the day for a beach or Lokrum island instead of the Old Town.
