Milan is Italy‘s financial and design capital, anchored by a 14th-century Gothic cathedral and a centro storico compact enough that the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and the Sforza Castle all sit within a 20 minute walk of each other. The Porta Nuova business district to the north has reshaped the skyline with the Bosco Verticale and a cluster of new towers.
Largo Cairoli
Daria thought it was Lisbon. The yellow tram rolling into Largo Cairoli will do that, until your eye lands on Giuseppe Garibaldi in bronze at the centre of the roundabout and the frame snaps back to Italy.
We had woken up early to shoot the Duomo and Galleria, and were walking toward the Sforza Castle when I noticed the composition: Garibaldi’s statue in the foreground, the castle towers behind, and a wide empty left side waiting to be filled. Largo Cairoli is busy even at first light, so trams kept arriving, but most were wrapped in advertising and killed the frame. Then this orange one came in clean. After a few attempts I knew when to press and how long to leave the shutter open. The driver gave me a strange look. Hard to blame him.
Sforza Castle
Sforza Castle is a stone’s throw from the Duomo and gets photographed less than it should. The site is older than the building: the Roman Castrum Portae Jovis stood here when Milan was the capital of the Western Empire. The first castle on the ground was commissioned in 1370 by Galeazzo II Visconti. After the Visconti period it fell into decline, then Francesco Sforza restored and extended it in the 15th century. Leonardo da Vinci painted frescoes in several rooms with Bernardino Zenale and Bernardino Butinone, and Bramante also worked on the castle’s design. Today it holds museums and archives, with a working courtyard, a moat line, and three facades to compose from.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
The Galleria, completed in 1877, is the oldest active shopping arcade in Italy and is named after the first king of unified Italy. The name is said to have inspired the modern use of “gallery” for arcades elsewhere. From the start it housed the country’s most prominent cafes and stores; today it leans heavily into haute couture and jewelry. McDonald’s was a tenant for two decades before the city ended the lease, producing a 24 million euro lawsuit.
The mosaic floor is its own attraction. Coats of arms of Turin, Florence, and Rome are inlaid in the stone, and there is a local ritual of spinning three times on one heel on the bull of Turin for luck. The wear on the bull tells you how many take that seriously.
Milan Cathedral (Duomo)
The Cathedral of the Birth of St. Mary, known simply as the Duomo, is among the largest churches in Europe and the largest in the Italian Republic. The square in front of it is rarely empty; the window before sunrise is the only time you can stand alone with the facade. The day before I made the panorama, we were having a Spritz with a friend on a rooftop bar near the square, looking down on the Duomo from a height the architects intended. The roof carries 135 pinnacles plus sculptures and gargoyles, most of them invisible from the pavement. They were cut in detail because the design assumed God would see them from above. Standing on that roof and understanding the intent behind the work was one of the things that stayed with me.
Piazza del Duomo
The square has existed in some form since the 14th century, when Azzone Visconti, then Lord of Milan, ordered the demolition of the taverns cluttering the old market. The Duomo’s construction began around the same period and took close to six centuries to finish. To have the square to yourself with the cathedral lit by first light, you arrive before sunrise. Once the cafes open and the tour groups arrive from the metro, the foreground belongs to other people.
Bosco Verticale
The Bosco Verticale, the Vertical Forest, sits in the Porta Nuova business district. Two residential towers, 111 metres and 76 metres tall, carry around 900 trees, 5,000 shrubs, and 11,000 flowering plants on their balconies. They were built this way to reduce smog and raise local oxygen levels. Standing at the base, looking up at apartments wrapped in real tree canopies in the financial heart of the city, was one of the more unusual sights I have photographed in Italy. It reads as a statement about work and life: people here go home from the office to a forest.
When to Visit
Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) give the best balance of mild weather, fewer crowds, and dependable morning light. July and August are hot and many residents leave for the coast. December turns the centre dense with shoppers. Three full days covers the historic centre, Sforza Castle, the Galleria, and Porta Nuova. Add a fourth for Lake Como or the Navigli canals after dark.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time of year to visit Milan?
April through June and September through October give the best weather and clearest light. Summer is hot and many locals leave the city. December is busy with shopping and Christmas markets. January and February are cold but quiet, with frequent fog that can suit moody architectural work.
How many days do you need in Milan?
Three full days covers the Duomo, Galleria, Sforza Castle, and Porta Nuova at a reasonable pace. Add a fourth for Lake Como, the Navigli canals after dark, or the Cenacolo Vinciano (Last Supper), which requires advance booking.
What is the best sunrise spot in Milan?
Piazza del Duomo before sunrise gives the cathedral facade with an empty foreground, which is rare during the day. Largo Cairoli, with the Garibaldi statue and Sforza Castle behind it, is also active early enough that the trams run but tourist crowds have not arrived.
Is Milan walkable?
Central Milan is walkable. The Duomo, Galleria, Sforza Castle, and Largo Cairoli sit within a 20 minute walk of each other. The metro is fast and clean for longer hops out to Porta Nuova for the Bosco Verticale. Most photography routes are best done on foot.
Can you go up on the Duomo roof?
Yes. The roof terraces are open via lift or stairs from the side of the building. From there you see the 135 pinnacles up close, the sculptural detail of the towers, and on clear days the Alps in the distance. Tickets are sold separately from the main cathedral entry.
Is the Bosco Verticale open to the public?
The Bosco Verticale is a private residential complex, so the interiors and balconies are not accessible. The towers can be photographed from the surrounding plaza in Porta Nuova, including the elevated walkway around Piazza Gae Aulenti, which gives a clean line of sight to both.
