Valencia is Spain‘s third-largest city, sitting on the Mediterranean coast as the capital of the Valencian Community. The defining modern landmark is the City of Arts and Sciences, a Calatrava and Candela complex built into the former bed of the River Turia, while the Old Town clusters around the cathedral.
City of Arts and Sciences
Valencia is a playground for those who love modern architecture. The City of Arts and Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y de las Ciencias) is built into the dried-up bed of the River Turia, which was rerouted after the 1957 flood. Santiago Calatrava, a native of Valencia, designed most of the complex, with Félix Candela contributing to L’Oceanogràfic. Buildings opened in stages from 1998: an opera house, a planetarium and IMAX (L’Hemisfèric), a science museum (Príncipe Felipe), and an aquarium (L’Oceanogràfic).
Hemisfèric
The Hemisfèric was the first building to open in the complex, on 16 April 1998. The architecture offers so much detail without losing its minimalist character that you never grow tired of looking at it.
When closed, the dome appears to sink into the surrounding water. Once the 100 metre oval roof opens, the reflection creates a colossal eye of knowledge. Inside is a planetarium and an IMAX cinema. To me personally, the eye of knowledge is also the eye of a photographer, always on the lookout for a new photograph.
Prince Felipe Museum of Science
The Príncipe Felipe Science Museum is the long, ribbed structure that runs along one side of the complex. I shot it in the evening, while the light was mild and delicate. There is a café at the end of the illuminated museum. While Daria waited there reading, I was running up and down outside, shooting one frame after another, even past my favourite blue hour.
I was so busy outside that no time was left for the interior. One day I will go back.
Valencia Cathedral
The Cathedral, called “Seu” by Catalan speakers, was consecrated in 1238. Archaeological work confirmed an earlier Visigothic church on the same site, later converted into a mosque under Muslim rule, then replaced by the current cathedral after the Christian reconquest. The architecture is a layered mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical.
If you search “Valencia Cathedral” on Google, the first suggestion is “Is the Holy Grail in Valencia?”. Tradition holds that the Santo Cáliz, kept in the side chapel to the right of the entrance, is the cup used by Jesus at the Last Supper. The Catholic Church has treated it as a credible candidate, though historical attestation is limited.
Plaza de la Virgen
Plaza de la Virgen sits in the heart of the Old Town, dating in some form back to the Roman era. The square is anchored by the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, the cathedral, and the Palace of the Generalitat, with the Turia Fountain in the centre.
We arrived late and lost our way in the narrow streets. When we finally reached Plaza de la Virgen I knew where I wanted to be at dawn. In the evening the photo would not have been possible: the square was full of people eating, talking and drinking, with someone offering a beer every two minutes.
I went back early the next morning. The cleaning had started, water was being splashed against the smell of the night before, and not much later the daily fuss began again.
Mercado Central
The Mercado Central is impossible to pass by indifferently. The exterior is Valencian Art Nouveau with elements of traditional Gothic. Inside, light penetrates through stained-glass windows on the walls and roof, reflected back by the stalls full of regional products.
The market opened in 1928 and covers around 8,000 square metres, among the largest of its kind in Europe. The vaulted ceiling rivals many a cathedral. The hall is built from metal, marble and wood, and the muted tones let the colours of vegetables, fruit, jamón and seafood do the work in any photograph.
Valencia Marina
Valencia Marina, officially the Marina Juan Carlos I, became internationally known when the city hosted the America’s Cup in 2007. The waterfront was renovated for the regatta, and the marina kept drawing in tourists and historical vessels worth a long look.
We came with two goals: see the Juan Carlos I Marina, and the beach on the other side. The 20-minute trip from the city centre was worth it. We walked both docks and counted the different kinds of boats. This was likely when I began dreaming about travelling along the coast with a boat of my own.
Old Town and Albufera
La Lonja de la Seda, the silk exchange, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 as one of the finest examples of late Valencian Gothic civil architecture. The Turia Gardens trace the old riverbed in a roughly 9 kilometre arc through the city, ending at the City of Arts and Sciences. South of Valencia, the Albufera lagoon is the rice-growing landscape where paella was invented.
When to Visit Valencia
Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September, October) are the most comfortable months. July and August are hot, often above 30°C. Las Fallas, the city’s biggest festival, runs 15 to 19 March and ends with the burning of giant satirical sculptures.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need in Valencia?
Three days is a comfortable minimum: one for the Old Town and Mercado Central, one for the City of Arts and Sciences, and one for the marina, beach and either Albufera or the Turia Gardens. Two days is workable if you skip the beach and the lagoon.
What is the best time of year to visit Valencia?
April to June and September to October are the most comfortable months, warm without the peak summer heat. Mid-March is worth considering for Las Fallas, though accommodation prices rise sharply and crowds make architectural photography difficult.
Is the Holy Grail really in Valencia Cathedral?
The cathedral holds the Santo Cáliz, a stone cup that Catholic tradition identifies as the chalice of the Last Supper. Several popes have used it for Mass. Historical attestation is limited, so the claim is best treated as tradition rather than fact.
Who designed the City of Arts and Sciences?
Most of the complex was designed by Valencia-born architect Santiago Calatrava, with Félix Candela contributing to L’Oceanogràfic. The Hemisfèric opened in 1998 and the rest followed in stages over the next decade.
How do you get from the city centre to the City of Arts and Sciences?
The complex is about a 25 to 30 minute walk south-east from the cathedral, much of it through the Turia Gardens. Several city buses serve the complex directly, and Metro line 10 has stops along the southern edge.
Where was paella invented?
Paella originated in the Albufera area south of Valencia, where rice has been cultivated for centuries. The traditional recipe is rabbit, chicken, snails, beans and saffron rice. Seafood paella is a coastal variant.
Is Valencia a walkable city?
Yes for the Old Town: the cathedral, Mercado Central, La Lonja and Plaza de la Virgen sit within a 15 minute radius of each other. The City of Arts and Sciences and the marina are further out and best reached by bus or metro.
