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Langkawi

Index

Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 islands off the northwestern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, in the state of Kedah, close enough to Thailand that a phone will roam across the border on the right boat ride. The main island holds the airport, the larger resorts, and the duty-free zone, with mangrove-lined limestone cliffs to the northeast and long sand beaches along the west coast.

Water chalets in Langkawy, Malaysia. Berjaya Langkawi Resort under a dramatic sky.
Chalets on Water | Langkawi Island, Malaysia

Berjaya Langkawi Resort

In 2016 we honeymooned at the Berjaya Langkawi Resort and barely left the chalet. In 2022 we came back for two weeks in February and finally saw the rest of the island. The resort itself is the reason we keep planning to return at least once every five years.

The chalets are built on stilts over the Malacca Strait or scattered through the rainforest, with the layout designed around standing trees rather than felled ones. The walk from our chalet to breakfast took fifteen to twenty minutes through the jungle. There is a free electric shuttle, but Daria and I preferred the walk.

Chalet on the water in Berjaya resort in Langkawi Island
Chalet on water in Langkawi Island Resort | Malaysia

The private beach is small, with a beach bar, a boathouse, and a row of palms that hide the lobby on the right side of the frame. Monkeys are a real concern: leave a bag on a sun lounger while you swim and you may come back to find it open. Otters sometimes cross from the mangrove behind the beach down to the water, fast and squeaking.

I get lazy on actual holidays, so I have spent long afternoons reading on this beach with the contents of several young coconuts. The pool sits next to the lobby for anyone who would rather skip sea salt.

Berjaya Langkawi Beach Resort
Beach, Chalets, Boathouse and Beach Bar of the Berjaya Langkawi Beach Resort in Malaysia

Kilim Geoforest Park – Nature on Langkawi

Kilim sits on the northeast corner of the island and is the part of Langkawi we missed entirely on the first trip. Mangrove channels open into limestone cliffs and finally into open water, with two-boat tours running from the jetty. Monkeys line the banks in places, kingfishers cut across the channels, and at the transition from mangrove to open sea I framed our second tour boat passing the park’s logo on the bow.

The phone switched networks from Malaysia to Thailand at the far edge. We were that close, and yet again did not cross over.

Kilim Geoforest Park on Langkawi
The second tour boat, just as we were leaving Kilim Geoforest Park. It is on the northeast corner of Langkawi, Malaysia where you can start this mangrove tour.

The whole archipelago sits inside a UNESCO Global Geopark designation, granted in 2007, and Kilim is the most visible piece of it.

Eagles in the Mangrove

Part of the Kilim tour is an eagle feeding. The guide throws bait into the water and the birds circle and dive for two minutes. I have mixed feelings about it: a second boat arrived five minutes after ours and ran the same routine, which starts to push wild birds toward zoo behaviour.

The smaller red-brown raptors taking the bait are mostly Brahminy Kites. The larger birds, watching from high in the trees and not bothering with the feed, are White-Bellied Sea Eagles. They grow up to 85 centimetres tall with a wingspan around 220 centimetres, and on this stretch of coast they let the kites do the diving while they sit it out.

White-bellied sea eagle in Langkawi
White Bellied Sea Eagles sitting on a tree in the mangrove swamp of Kilim Geoforest Park in Langkawi, Malaysia

Aerial & Night Photography on Langkawi

The 2016 trip was the maiden flight of my DJI Phantom 4, and the coast in front of the resort was the first real test. The chalets line up along the shore with rainforest behind them and the Malacca Strait in front, which is close to the only frame that captures the place properly. From the ground you only see one piece at a time.

After dark I tried astrophotography on Langkawi from the same coast. The slow shutter pulled out a violet cast in the night sky that I could not see with the naked eye. The resort lights stayed soft enough that the stars carried the frame.

Aerial photograph of Langkawi Beach, Malaysia with Berjaya Langkawi Resort
Langkawi Beach from above | Langkawi, Malaysia
Langkawi stars, Malaysia. Berjaya Langkawi Resort at night
Langkawi Stars | Langkawi Island, Malaysia

When to Visit Langkawi

The dry season runs roughly November through March and is the safest window for sun. We took the gamble on April 2016 (start of the rainy season) and got lucky with two weeks of clear weather. The heaviest rain on this side of the peninsula falls September into October.

Temperatures sit between 27 and 32 degrees Celsius year-round with high humidity. Most flights connect through Kuala Lumpur or Penang, and ferries from Kuala Perlis run regularly for travellers coming overland.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to visit Langkawi?

November through March is the reliable dry window with the most consistent sun. April through August brings short heavy showers but generally sunny mornings. September and October are the wettest and worth avoiding for beach time. Diving and island-hopping are best December to early March.

How many days do you need in Langkawi?

Five to seven days covers the island at a comfortable pace: two days for the beach and resort, one for Kilim Geoforest Park, one for the Cable Car and Sky Bridge, one for island-hopping by speedboat, and a buffer day for swimming or a second mangrove run if the first is overcast.

Should you fly or take the ferry to Langkawi?

Flights from Kuala Lumpur take about an hour and are the easiest option. Ferries run from Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah on the mainland, and from Penang (around three hours). The ferry suits travellers already on the peninsula. For most arrivals from Europe or North America, flying via KL is faster.

Are there monkeys on the beach in Langkawi?

Yes. Macaques live across the island, including the beaches and resort grounds. They will open unattended bags, take fruit and shiny objects, and are bold enough to enter chalets through open patio doors. Keep food and electronics out of sight, close doors when you leave, and do not feed them.

Is Langkawi duty-free?

Langkawi has duty-free status, so alcohol, chocolate, tobacco, and some electronics are noticeably cheaper than on mainland Malaysia. Most resorts and convenience stores stock the duty-free range. Allowances apply when you leave the island, so check current customs limits before stocking up.

What is the Mahsuri legend?

Mahsuri was a young woman wrongly accused of adultery roughly two hundred years ago and executed on Langkawi. According to the local tale she bled white blood and cursed the islands to suffer for seven generations. Her tomb is a small visitor site, and locals say the seven generations have passed.

Is there good snorkelling around Langkawi?

The best snorkelling and diving is at Pulau Payar Marine Park, around an hour by speedboat south of the main island. Day trips run to the platform there for snorkelling, diving, and feeding small reef sharks in the shallows. The mangrove tours at Kilim are not snorkelling trips, but the river mouth is good for spotting wildlife above water.

Can you see Thailand from Langkawi?

Kilim Geoforest Park sits close enough to the maritime border that mobile phones often roam onto Thai networks during the tour. Crossing legally requires a ferry from Telaga Harbour to Koh Lipe, which runs in the dry season.

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