Bucharest is the capital of Romania, set on the Dâmbovița river in the southern part of the country. In the interwar period it was called the “Little Paris of the East” for its Belle Époque boulevards, and that fabric still sits next to Communist-era blocks and modern glass. The city is defined by the massive Palace of the Parliament in the south and by the Old Town (Lipscani) as the historic core a few minutes north.
Palace of the Parliament
The Palace of the Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului) was the only thing on my mind when I saw cheap flights to Romania in April 2013. Construction began in 1984 under Nicolae Ceaușescu and was largely completed in 1997. The building goes as deep into the ground as it goes up into the sky, with around 1,100 rooms across twelve floors above ground and another eight below.
By floor area it is the second-largest administrative building in the world after the Pentagon, and by some measures the heaviest building anywhere because of all the marble, crystal, and steel. You can only visit on a guided tour, and only a small fraction of the corridors are open. The exterior sits at the end of the long, wide Bulevardul Unirii and is hard to fit in a single frame even at 10mm.
The Ballroom
The biggest room inside the Palace is the Ballroom. It measures 972 square metres. Directly behind me when I shot the frame was a rolled-up carpet that covers the whole floor, knotted together inside the room itself because it was too big and heavy to carry in finished. The room can be rented for events, weddings included.
I would have stayed longer if I could. The tour moves at one pace, and the guide reminded me a hundred times to stay with the group. A figure in the frame would have helped show the dimension; without one the scale collapses.
Bucharest Old Town
The Old Town, Lipscani, is the historic core, a grid of narrow streets that survived where much of the old city did not. Bucharest was hit hard by Allied bombing in 1944, by a major earthquake in 1977, and then by Ceaușescu’s “systematization” programme that flattened entire neighbourhoods to make room for the Civic Centre and the Palace.
What remains in Lipscani is a mix of 19th century townhouses, Orthodox churches, and trading halls, much of it restored through the 2010s. On my visit the contrasts were the thing. Drinking an expensive beer in front of a ruined building, a five-star hotel going up two streets over, crumbling facades next to fresh paint. It read like a city on the edge of a bigger change.
St. Anthony’s Church in Bucharest
St. Anthony’s Church stands just down the street from the old Voivode’s Palace in the Old Town. It is widely cited as the oldest building in Bucharest that has mostly retained its original shape, built in the 1650s during the rule of Prince Mircea Ciobanul. The frame I kept from there is not a clean architectural shot of the church. It is the church with people in front of it at sunset, warm light on the wall, the building reading more as backdrop than monument.
Memorial of Rebirth
The Memorial of Rebirth (Memorialul Renașterii) sits on Revolution Square (Piața Revoluției) along Calea Victoriei, where the 1989 revolution against Ceaușescu played out in front of the former Central Committee building. The 25 metre marble pillar marks the dead. Locals were not unanimous on the design, and the nicknames “Olive on a Toothpick” and “Potato of the Revolution” stuck.
Calea Victoriei
Calea Victoriei is the historic spine of the city, running roughly north-south from Piața Victoriei down past Revolution Square toward the Old Town. The Romanian Athenaeum, the National Museum of Art (in the former Royal Palace), the CEC Palace, and the Cantacuzino Palace all sit on or just off this street. Walking it from the north end down is the simplest way to see how interwar Bucharest looked when the “Little Paris” comparison was still fresh.
When to Visit Bucharest
April through early June and September give the most usable light and mild temperatures. July and August can run hot and hazy on the wide southern boulevards. Winter is cold and often grey. The trip I took was in April, and the weather was uncooperative for photography in the way Bucharest weather often is: pure blue sky in the middle of the day, rain when a sunset would have been useful, a clean sunrise on the wrong boulevard.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time of year to visit Bucharest?
April to early June and September give the best balance of mild temperatures, long usable light, and lower crowds. July and August are warm and can be hazy. Winters are cold and grey but quiet, with occasional snow that suits the wide Communist-era boulevards.
How many days do you need in Bucharest?
Two to three days covers the Palace of the Parliament tour, the Old Town and Lipscani, Revolution Square, Calea Victoriei, and the Romanian Athenaeum. A fourth day lets you add Cișmigiu Park, the Village Museum, or a day trip to Peleș Castle in Sinaia.
Can you visit the Palace of the Parliament?
Yes, but only on a guided tour and with advance booking and ID. Tours cover a small set of rooms including the Ballroom, the largest room in the building. Photography is allowed inside but the group keeps moving, so plan to work fast rather than set up.
Is Bucharest walkable?
The Old Town, Revolution Square, the Romanian Athenaeum, and the lower stretch of Calea Victoriei are walkable as a single loop. The Palace of the Parliament is reachable on foot from the Old Town in roughly twenty minutes. For longer distances the metro is fast and cheap.
How do I get from the airport to the city centre?
Henri Coandă International Airport (Otopeni) sits about 18 kilometres north of the centre. The express bus 783 runs to Piața Unirii, and a metro line connects the airport to the city as well. Taxis and ride-hail (Bolt, Uber) are widely available and inexpensive by Western European standards.
Is Bucharest safe for visitors?
Bucharest is a generally safe European capital. Usual caution around pickpocketing in tourist areas, at the central station, and on busy public transport applies. Stray dogs were once a problem but the population has been reduced. Romania has been an EU member since 2007.
What is the currency in Bucharest?
Romania uses the Romanian leu (RON), not the euro, despite EU membership. Card payments are accepted almost everywhere in the centre. Keep some cash for smaller cafes, kiosks, and tips.
