Lithuania is the southernmost of the three Baltic states, on the eastern shore of the Baltic Sea. It borders Latvia, Belarus, Poland and the Russian region of Kaliningrad. Vilnius, the capital, lies inland in the southeast, while the Curonian Spit shapes the short coastline in the west.
Trakai Island Castle
Grand Duke Kęstutis began the castle in the second half of the 14th century. It stands on an island in Lake Galvė, about 30 km west of Vilnius. His son Vytautas completed it, and he died there in 1430. At that time, Trakai was one of the centres of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.
After the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, however, the castle lost its military role. Over the following centuries, it fell into ruin. The first restoration attempts came under Russian rule and during World War I. Even so, the real reconstruction came only in 1951 to 1961, and the last works ended in 1987.
As a result, the red brick you see today is largely rebuilt. Still, it follows the original Gothic plan closely. Since 1962, the castle has housed the Trakai History Museum.
Trakai in Winter
We came to Trakai by chance. Over New Year, people we met in Vilnius had just been there. They told us to go, because the castle looks its best in hard frost. On 4 January 2016, the thermometer read minus 27. So Daria waited in a café while I worked the bridge.
The lake was frozen solid, and it made sounds. Low cracks and groans came out of the ice, again and again. At first, the noise was unsettling. Then it turned out to be only the ice moving.
Forty minutes before sunset, the low sun lit the towers. I made the castle in the afternoon sun at 19mm from the short bridge in front of the gate. In that light, the brick turns almost orange against a pale sky.
Then I stayed for the blue hour. By 17:06, the sky had turned deep blue behind the lit gate. For the blue hour frame from the footbridge, I stepped back and used 48mm. That way, the gate tower holds the centre. The exposure ran ten seconds. That wait made the image.
The Karaim of Trakai
Trakai is not only Lithuanian. In 1397 and 1398, Vytautas brought several hundred Karaim families from Crimea after his campaigns in the south. They served as guards of the castle and settled on the town’s main street.
Their community still lives here, more than six centuries later. I saw their village, close to the castle. Their wooden houses typically turn three windows to the street. In addition, their kenesa (prayer house) is one of the very few Karaite houses of worship left in the world.
For food, kibinai are the Karaim dish to order in Trakai. These baked pastries are usually filled with meat.
Vilnius
The rest of our Lithuania archive comes from Vilnius, over the same New Year trip. We came to celebrate with friends, and the cold kept the streets nearly empty. For that reason, I could shoot the main sights without crowds in the frame.
On 3 January, we climbed the castle hill with two cameras. The Nikon stayed on the tripod for the changing light. Meanwhile, I walked around with the Canon for other angles. At 15:50, the Canon made the panorama from the Upper Castle. A red band of sunset lay over the city.
Five minutes later, the Nikon caught the tower against the sunset, nine minutes before the sun went down.
Then, forty minutes after sunset, it made the skyline over the frozen Neris at 55mm.
Our Vilnius travel guide covers each location in the capital in depth. Here, instead, the focus is the trip itself, day by day.
Neris River
On 2 January, the Neris still moved. Large slabs of ice drifted downstream and knocked against each other. Walking along the river, I stopped on the bank.
A 25-second exposure turned the drifting ice on the Neris into streaks. Behind it, the late sun warmed the towers of Šnipiškės, the business district on the north bank. The twin towers of a Baroque church stand on the left.
The timing mattered more than I knew. By the next day, the river had frozen solid. As a result, the skyline frame from the castle hill shows a white, still Neris. In our archive, the moving river exists only in this one frame.
Presidential Palace
The same evening, we went to the Presidential Palace. Originally, the site was the residence of the bishops of Vilnius. Later, Vasily Stasov rebuilt it in the Empire style in the 1820s and 1830s. It has been the seat of the President of Lithuania since 1997.
At 16:38, I made the palace grounds in blue hour. The fountain was switched off for winter and dressed with balls of light. Lit trees stood in the snow around it.
Seven minutes later, I turned to the lit facade on the square. Christmas lights traced every window. A flag on the roof means the President is in the building. Today, the palace also offers guided tours on set days.
Vilnius Old Town
On 4 January, we started before dawn. Sunrise came only at 08:41, so the blue hour was long. In that hour, the Old Town belonged to us.
At 07:22, I photographed the National Museum below the castle hill, with the statue of King Mindaugas in front. Mindaugas, crowned in 1253, was the only king Lithuania ever had.
Twenty-four minutes later, I reached Cathedral Square. There, the Christmas tree next to the bell tower was still lit.
At 08:03, the sky turned a brighter blue. By then, I was at the Church of St Anne, the brick Gothic church from around 1500. Behind the Mickiewicz monument, the Bernardine church fills the right side of the frame.
These streets are part of one of the largest medieval old towns in Northern Europe. That same afternoon, we went out to Trakai.
When to Visit Lithuania
Winter gave us every frame in this guide. In early January, the sun rises after 08:40 and sets around 16:05. Therefore, you get less than seven and a half hours of daylight. Yet the blue hour lasts long at both ends, and that is when the cities glow.
The cold is real, though. On our trip, it fell from minus 23 to minus 27. Batteries drain fast, and fingers freeze to a tripod. Also, rivers and lakes may freeze within a day, so a moving-ice frame needs luck.
Summer is the opposite. Days run past 21:00, the lakes around Trakai fill with boats, and the Curonian Spit opens its beach season. Spring and autumn are quieter, with mild weather and fewer visitors.
Getting Around Lithuania
Most visitors arrive at Vilnius International Airport, a short ride from the Old Town. From Vilnius, trains and buses reach Trakai in about 30 to 40 minutes. From the station in Trakai, it is a walk of roughly half an hour to the castle.
Lithuania joined the European Union in 2004 and the Schengen area in 2007. Since 2015, it has used the euro. Cards work almost everywhere.
The Baltic capitals also connect well by bus. To the north, Riga follows, with the Freedom Monument at sunrise. Further on, Tallinn’s skyline at dawn waits in Estonia. To the southwest, finally, our Poland guide continues to Warsaw and Krakow.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best time to visit Lithuania?
May to September brings long days, mild weather and the beach season on the Curonian Spit. For snow and frozen lakes, come from late December to February. In early January, however, daylight lasts under seven and a half hours and temperatures can drop below minus 20.
How many days do you need in Lithuania?
Three days cover Vilnius and a trip to Trakai. With a week, you can add Kaunas, the Hill of Crosses near Šiauliai and the Curonian Spit on the coast. Distances are short, so one base in Vilnius and one on the coast work well.
How do you get from Vilnius to Trakai?
Trains and buses run from Vilnius to Trakai and take about 30 to 40 minutes. From the station, the castle is a walk of around half an hour through the town. Trakai works well as a half-day trip, so it fits between two days in Vilnius.
Is Trakai Castle open in winter?
Yes. In winter, the Trakai History Museum opens the island castle from Wednesday to Sunday. It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. In summer, it opens every day. Hours change by season, so check the museum’s website before you go. The bridge and the exterior views are free.
What currency does Lithuania use?
Lithuania has used the euro since January 2015. Cards are accepted almost everywhere in Vilnius, Trakai and Kaunas. Smaller cafés and markets may still prefer cash. Lithuania is also part of the Schengen area, so there are no passport checks from other Schengen countries.
Who are the Karaim of Trakai?
The Karaim are a small Turkic-speaking community. Grand Duke Vytautas brought them from Crimea to Trakai in the late 14th century. Their wooden houses still line the main street, and their kenesa is one of the few Karaite prayer houses left. Their kibinai pastries are the town’s best-known dish.
Is Lithuania a Baltic country?
Yes. Lithuania is the largest and southernmost of the three Baltic states, together with Latvia and Estonia. All three regained their independence in 1990 and 1991. They joined the European Union and NATO in 2004.
