Praça Rodrigues Lobo is the main town square in Leiria’s Old Town, serving as a central meeting place surrounded by historic buildings, cafés, and shops.
I have to confess: I have an obsession with town squares. They are historically the most important part of any city, where I can feel the history of the place most strongly. And from the moment I stepped onto its cobblestones, I knew Leiria Old Town Square was no exception.
So as always, I have a look and try to find the best angle and the best answers: Why did this become a town square? What makes it special? And how can I best portray its atmosphere?
Leiria Old Town Square: History meets poetry
This historic square in Leiria is named after the notable Portuguese poet Francisco Rodrigues Lobo, who was born in Leiria and regularly drew inspiration from the region’s landscapes. You can find a statue of him in the square, serving as a reminder of his legacy.
But the history of Leiria Old Town square goes a lot further. The square was originally known as Praça de São Martinho, after the church of that name that once stood there. This place has anchored urban life since the 12th-century expansion beyond the walls of the Castle of Leiria, and you can breathe history all around as you stand there.
Sunlight, castle views and Portuguese sweets
This is a really beautiful square, so large that you can see Leiria’s castle from anywhere, towering above the houses. The paving has those intricate geometrical patterns so typical of Portugal, which always make me feel like I’m walking on art, creating a nice contrast with the surrounding low-rise, pastel façades.
Praça Rodrigues Lobo feels open, populated and vibrant. You have all these local shops and nice little cafés in Leiria’s Old Town, where people come to meet, stroll, read, have a drink or a snack.
By the way, you can (and should) get one of Leiria’s typical egg yolk sweets, the Brisas do Lis, in one of the many cafés in the old town. This small pastry was historically produced by nuns in the former Convento de Santana. Notable places include the traditional pastry shop LuziClara, or the Michelin Guide recommended Casinha Velha.
My favorite challenge: how to capture the square without the crowd
I always try to take a captivating photo of the town square. The Praça Rodrigues Lobo is a beautiful place that is normally quite alive, so of course, I had to use my tricks to capture it without people, because that’s how I prefer to do it.
As you probably guessed, the best chance is early morning on a weekday. Even better if it’s winter. This time of day at Leiria Old Town Square also offers a softer light and a more gentle contrast in comparison to noon, when the sunlight peaks over the square.
But be advised: Cafés in Leiria’s Old Town start their day early, and so does the buzz.
In this case, I tried to move around and find calmer scenes in the streets that frame the square, instead of going directly in the middle. Most of these streets are packed with cafés and shops, but I have learned in my many years of travel photography that if you are patient and responsive at the same time, the shot will come to you!
Itinerary tips for Praça Rodrigues Lobo
- If you visit during Christmas, this historic square in Leiria’s Old Town features beautiful decorations that will make for a whole different, equally engaging photography series.
- If you come by car, just note it may be difficult to find parking around Praça Rodrigues Lobo.
- You can easily combine a day in Leiria’s Old Town with a few stops near Praça Rodrigues Lobo, like the Igreja de São Pedro and the Mercado Municipal, both a few minutes away, and of course the unmissable Castle of Leiria, just a short walk uphill.
- Largo Cândido dos Reis is another historic square in Leiria, home to the Municipal Library and worth a short visit.
