{"id":90699,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-sl\/ciper-nikozija\/"},"modified":"2026-04-27T00:37:57","modified_gmt":"2026-04-27T00:37:57","slug":"nikozija","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/sl\/travelnikozija\/","title":{"rendered":"Nikozija"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Te\u017eko je pisati o Cipru, ne da bi pri tem pri mnogih Evropejcih, \u0161e posebej pa pri Cipr\u010danih, spro\u017eili nasprotujo\u010de si \u010dustva ali reakcije. Glavno mesto Nikozija je \u0161e danes razdeljeno med gr\u0161kimi in tur\u0161kimi Cipr\u010dani, in ne zdi se, da bi se ti dve strani v bli\u017enji prihodnosti ponovno zdru\u017eili. <\/strong><\/p>

Nico, kot pravi Berlin\u010dan<\/a>, je bil fasciniran nad mo\u017enostjo, da bi bila mesta Evropske unije tako razdeljena, kot je bil neko\u010d Berlin. <\/strong><\/p>

Zato je morala Nikozija biti visoko na na\u0161em seznamu obiskov in fotografiranja vseh evropskih prestolnic. \u017deleli smo odkriti zgodovino mesta in dobiti ob\u010dutek, kako je \u017eiveti na mestu, ki ga deli zid.<\/strong><\/p>

Nicosia \u2013 razdeljena prestolnica<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

Pristali smo v ju\u017enem delu mesta skoraj pono\u010di. Vnaprej smo rezervirali apartma in prevoz z letali\u0161\u010da v mesto. Ob rezervaciji smo lahko navedli teme, v katerih naj bi bil na\u0161 voznik specializiran, na primer kuhanje, ogled znamenitosti, zgodovina itd. \u2013 brez \u0161ale.<\/p>

Gospa, ki nas je pri\u0161la iskat, se je izkazala za bogat vir informacij in dobro prvo vodnico po ciprski kulturi. Na poti v mesto nam je razlo\u017eila, kaj Cipr\u010dani kuhajo, jedo in kako se sprostijo. Tema pa se je spremenila, ko smo se pribli\u017eevali mestu in se pred na\u0161imi o\u010dmi razgrnil pogled na tur\u0161ko zastavo, sestavljeno iz lu\u010di na enem od hribov. Gospa je bila videti nekoliko vznemirjena ob tem pogledu in nam je razlo\u017eila, da Turki to po\u010dnejo, da bi dra\u017eili gr\u0161ke Cipr\u010dane.<\/p>

\u010cutili smo, da moramo vpra\u0161ati, kak\u0161no je pre\u010dkati mejo Nikozije v severni del mesta. Pojasnila je, da to ni problem, potrebujemo le potne liste. Vpra\u0161ali smo, ali veliko ljudi pre\u010dka mejo, in odgovorila je, da to po\u010dne veliko turistov. Vpra\u0161ali smo, kako pogosto jo pre\u010dka sama, in rekla je, da skoraj nikoli. Ni veliko gr\u0161kih Cipr\u010danov, ki to po\u010dnejo ali \u010dutijo potrebo po tem. Poznali smo dejstva o konfliktu na Cipru, a zaradi na\u0161ega prvega pogovora z lokalno prebivalko smo ugotovili, kako te\u017eka je ta tema, da se zgodovina \u0161e vedno odvija in da rane \u0161e niso popolnoma zaceljene. Kljub temu znanju smo naredili prvo napako, ko smo severni del Nikozije imenovali \u00bbtur\u0161ki del\u00ab \u2013 saj se ju\u017eni del otoka \u0161teje za \u00bbokupiran del\u00ab.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Ju\u017eni del Nikozije<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Ju\u017eni del Nikozije nas je navdu\u0161il \u017ee prvi ve\u010der. Navdihnil nas je na\u0161 voznik, ki nas je pobral na letali\u0161\u010du, in takoj smo za\u010dutili potrebo, da poskusimo nekaj \u00bbmeze\u00ab (majhnih mesnih ali vegetarijanskih jedi, kot so solate, pe\u010deno meso, sir halloumi). Na\u0161li smo majhno restavracijo malo stran od glavne ulice Ledra. Bila je tipi\u010dna ciprska taverna z ve\u010derno \u017eivo glasbo. Tam smo se zelo dobro po\u010dutili. In v naslednjih nekaj dneh smo to izku\u0161njo odkrivanja razli\u010dnih lokacij z meze ponovili.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

Naslednji dve dni sva se sprehajala po ju\u017enem delu Nikozije. Ugotovila sva, da so nekatere ulice, zlasti zgodovinska glavna ulica Ledra, pametno zasnovane \u2013 nad ulicami visijo oran\u017ena in rumena platna, ki pe\u0161ce \u0161\u010ditijo pred soncem, ki mora biti v poletnih mesecih mo\u010dno. U\u017eivali smo tudi v sprehodu ob bene\u0161kih obzidjih v obliki zvezde, ki jih je leta 1567 zgradila Bene\u0161ka republika, da bi za\u0161\u010ditila mesto pred Osmanskim cesarstvom (mesto je padlo leta 1570, po 40 dneh obleganja). Zanimivo je bilo prebrati, da se je po osvojitvi otoka s strani Osmanskega cesarstva veliko Turkov preselilo na severni del otoka. Gr\u0161ki Cipr\u010dani so ve\u010dinoma \u017eiveli na jugu otoka, v okolici pravoslavnih cerkva. Med sprehodi po otoku smo odkrili \u0161tevilne od teh znamenitosti.<\/p>

Ciper je leta 1878 pre\u0161el iz rok osmanskih vladarjev pod britansko upravo. Od takrat so Cipr\u010dani mo\u010dno protestirali proti britanski vladavini, ki se je kon\u010dala zahvaljujo\u010d borcem EOKA. V spomin na to osvoboditev stoji v bli\u017eini starega mesta Spomenik svobodi, imenovan \u00bbEleftheria Monument\u00ab, ki nas je pretresel in nas tam zadr\u017eal za eno uro. Preprosto nismo mogli nehati strmeti v izrazite poze Svobode, borcev EOKA in Cipr\u010danov, ki so bili osvobojeni iz \u00bbzapora\u00ab.<\/p>

Leta 1960 je Nikozija postala glavno mesto Republike Ciper, a mir ni trajal dolgo. Leta 1963 so gr\u0161ki Cipr\u010dani predlagali spremembo ustave, ki je tur\u0161ki Cipr\u010dani niso sprejeli. Po tem je pri\u0161lo do \u0161tevilnih nasilnih incidentov in mesto je bilo treba razdeliti. Meja je dobila ime \u00bbZelena \u010drta\u00ab zaradi barve pisala, s katerim je eden od uradnikov Zdru\u017eenih narodov na zemljevidu Cipra narisal \u010drto premirja. Leta 1974 so gr\u0161ki Cipr\u010dani posku\u0161ali ponovno zdru\u017eiti otok, vendar so namesto tega povzro\u010dili tur\u0161ko invazijo na sever. Leto kasneje so tur\u0161ki Cipr\u010dani razglasili Tur\u0161ko zvezno dr\u017eavo Ciper za svojo dr\u017eavo.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Sprehodite se vzdol\u017e in \u010dez \u00bbzeleno \u010drto\u00ab na severni Ciper<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

Ko smo se sprehajali po ju\u017eni Nikoziji, smo pogosto videli \u00bbzeleno \u010drto\u00ab. In vsaki\u010d nas je stisnilo pri srcu. Meja v razli\u010dnih delih mesta ne izgleda enako. V\u010dasih je to travnik, poln krhkih, majhnih, rumenih cvetov, obdan z abatisom. V\u010dasih meja poteka ob zgradbah, ki so zdaj \u017ee ru\u0161evine. Enkrat smo videli celo cerkev, katere zadnja vrata mejijo na sever.<\/p>

Morda mislite, da bo, \u010de pre\u010dkate mejo v \u00bbLefko\u0161o\u00ab (kot Turki imenujejo svojo prestolnico), popolnoma druga\u010de kot v ju\u017eni Nikoziji. A ni tako. Ljudje govorijo drug jezik, je ve\u010d mo\u0161ej kot pravoslavnih cerkva, a \u017eivljenje te\u010de enako kot na jugu. V enem parku tik ob meji so se otroci igrali in smejali, kot da ograj sploh ne opazijo. Nico in jaz se ne spominjava veliko mej, ki bi bile tako dobro varovane, lahko bi rekla, da sva bila \u00bbotroka Schengena\u00ab.<\/p>

Obiskala sva tr\u017eni trg, ki je bil poln ljudi in turistov. Tam si lahko kupil vre\u010dko z izdelki Adidas ali Michael Kors za samo 20 \u20ac, a razen tega ni bilo na tem mestu ni\u010d nenavadnega. U\u017eivali smo tudi v dolgem sprehodu po okolici in ogledu karavanseraja B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Velika gostilna), ki je bil zgrajen leta 1572 kot hotel za popotnike, danes pa je kraj, kjer najdemo trgovine z ro\u010dnimi izdelki in spominki ter restavracije. Kar nam je bilo v\u0161e\u010d in temu mestu daje zna\u010daj, so bile pisane vezenine, ki ovijajo ograje in klopi na trgu znotraj. Izdelale so jih gr\u0161ke in ciprske \u017eenske, da bi pokazale povezavo med \u017eenskami na severu in jugu Nikozije.
\n\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

V Nikoziji nas ni niti za trenutek zapustila dolo\u010dena melanholi\u010dnost, vendar smo vedeli, kak\u0161en je na\u0161 cilj. To je bilo, da na na\u0161ih fotografijah poka\u017eemo lepoto obeh delov mesta z delitvenim zidom, kljub politi\u010dnim razmeram. Sonce popoldne in zjutraj greje enako, ne glede na to, ali je to Ledra Street na jugu ali B\u00fcy\u00fck Han na severu. Verjamemo, da je vredno pokazati oba kraja v najbolj\u0161i lu\u010di in da je treba spo\u0161tovati obe razli\u010dni kulturi. Morda sta razli\u010dni, morda \u0161e vedno obstaja nekaj \u017ealosti in jeze, a \u017eivljenje gre naprej \u2013 otroci se igrajo in smejijo, ljudje hodijo v slu\u017ebo, turisti pa se le sprehajajo. Nismo smeli fotografirati zelene \u010drte \u2013 a morda je bilo tako celo bolje.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Te\u017eko je pisati o Cipru, ne da bi pri tem pri mnogih Evropejcih, \u0161e posebej pa pri Cipr\u010danih, spro\u017eili nasprotujo\u010de si \u010dustva ali reakcije. Glavno mesto Nikozija je \u0161e danes razdeljeno med gr\u0161kimi in tur\u0161kimi Cipr\u010dani, in ne zdi se, da bi se ti dve strani v bli\u017enji prihodnosti ponovno zdru\u017eili. Nico, kot pravi Berlin\u010dan, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":79450,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15843,15844,15849],"tags":[15846,15848,15847,15845],"class_list":["post-90699","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ciper","category-nikozija","category-potovalni-vodniki","tag-hotel-sl","tag-meze-sl","tag-stena","tag-ulica-sl"],"yoast_head":"\nNikozija \u2013 ciprsko mesto, ki ga deli zid<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, ki je rojen v Berlinu, je bil navdu\u0161en nad tem, da je mogo\u010de mesto v Evropi razdeliti tako, kot je bilo neko\u010d Berlin. 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