{"id":122438,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-ro\/cyprus-nicosia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T04:09:04","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T04:09:04","slug":"nicosia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/ro\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nicosia"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Este dificil s\u0103 scrii despre Cipru f\u0103r\u0103 a st\u00e2rni sentimente sau reac\u021bii polarizate din partea multor europeni, \u00een special a ciprio\u021bilor. Capitala, Nicosia, este \u0219i ast\u0103zi \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit\u0103 \u00eentre ciprio\u021bii greci \u0219i cei turci, \u0219i nu pare c\u0103 aceste dou\u0103 p\u0103r\u021bi s-ar putea reuni \u00een viitorul apropiat. <\/strong><\/p>

Nico, fiind originar din Berlin<\/a>, era fascinat de posibilitatea ca ora\u0219ele din Uniunea European\u0103 s\u0103 fie la fel de divizate cum era Berlinul \u00een trecut. <\/strong><\/p>

Prin urmare, Nicosia trebuia s\u0103 ocupe un loc frunta\u0219 pe lista noastr\u0103 de vizite \u0219i fotografii ale tuturor capitalelor europene. Am vrut s\u0103 descoperim istoria ora\u0219ului \u0219i s\u0103 sim\u021bim cum este s\u0103 tr\u0103ie\u0219ti \u00eentr-un loc divizat de un zid.<\/strong><\/p>

Nicosia \u2013 O capital\u0103 divizat\u0103<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

Am aterizat \u00een partea de sud a ora\u0219ului aproape noaptea. Rezervasem \u00een avans un apartament \u0219i transportul de la aeroport c\u0103tre ora\u0219. La rezervare, am putut specifica subiectele \u00een care doream ca \u0219oferul nostru s\u0103 fie specializat, cum ar fi g\u0103titul, vizitarea obiectivelor turistice, istoria etc. \u2013 nu glumesc.<\/p>

Doamna care ne-a preluat s-a dovedit a fi o bogat\u0103 surs\u0103 de informa\u021bii \u0219i un bun ghid de ini\u021biere \u00een cultura cipriot\u0103. Pe drumul spre ora\u0219, ne-a explicat ce g\u0103tesc \u0219i m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 ciprio\u021bii \u0219i ce fac pentru a se relaxa. Totu\u0219i, subiectul s-a schimbat pe m\u0103sur\u0103 ce ne apropiam de ora\u0219 \u0219i priveli\u0219tea steagului turcesc format din lumini pe unul dintre dealuri s-a desf\u0103\u0219urat \u00een fa\u021ba ochilor no\u0219tri. Doamna p\u0103rea pu\u021bin tulburat\u0103 de priveli\u0219te \u0219i ne-a explicat c\u0103 turcii fac asta pentru a-i tachina pe ciprio\u021bii greci.<\/p>

Am sim\u021bit nevoia s\u0103 o \u00eentreb\u0103m cum este s\u0103 treci grani\u021ba dintre Nicosia \u0219i partea de nord a ora\u0219ului. Ea ne-a explicat c\u0103 nu este o problem\u0103, avem nevoie doar de pa\u0219apoarte. Am \u00eentrebat-o dac\u0103 mul\u021bi oameni trec grani\u021ba, iar ea a r\u0103spuns c\u0103 mul\u021bi turi\u0219ti fac asta. Am \u00eentrebat-o c\u00e2t de des o trece ea, iar ea a spus c\u0103 aproape niciodat\u0103. Nu mul\u021bi ciprio\u021bi greci fac asta sau simt nevoia s\u0103 o fac\u0103. Cuno\u0219team faptele legate de conflictul din Cipru, dar datorit\u0103 primei noastre conversa\u021bii cu o localnic\u0103, am descoperit c\u00e2t de dificil este acest subiect, c\u0103 istoria \u00eenc\u0103 se scrie \u0219i c\u0103 r\u0103nile nu s-au vindecat \u00eenc\u0103 pe deplin. \u00cen ciuda acestor cuno\u0219tin\u021be, am f\u0103cut prima noastr\u0103 gre\u0219eal\u0103 numind partea de nord a ora\u0219ului Nicosia \u201epartea turc\u0103\u201d \u2013 deoarece partea de sud a insulei este considerat\u0103 \u201epartea ocupat\u0103\u201d.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Sudul ora\u0219ului Nicosia<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Partea de sud a ora\u0219ului Nicosia ne-a cucerit \u00eenc\u0103 din prima sear\u0103. Inspira\u021bi de \u0219oferul nostru, care ne-a preluat de la aeroport, am sim\u021bit nevoia s\u0103 \u00eencerc\u0103m imediat ni\u0219te \u201eMeze\u201d (mici preparate din carne sau vegetariene, precum salate, carne la gr\u0103tar, br\u00e2nz\u0103 halloumi). Am g\u0103sit un mic restaurant pu\u021bin mai departe de strada principal\u0103 Ledra. Era o tavern\u0103 tipic\u0103 cipriot\u0103, cu muzic\u0103 live seara. Ne-am bucurat foarte mult de timpul petrecut acolo. \u0218i \u00een urm\u0103toarele c\u00e2teva zile, am repetat aceast\u0103 experien\u021b\u0103 de a descoperi diverse localuri cu meze.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

\u00cen urm\u0103toarele dou\u0103 zile, ne-am plimbat prin partea de sud a ora\u0219ului Nicosia. Am constatat c\u0103 unele str\u0103zi, \u00een special strada principal\u0103 istoric\u0103 Ledra, erau proiectate inteligent \u2013 p\u00e2nze portocalii \u0219i galbene at\u00e2rnau deasupra str\u0103zilor, protej\u00e2nd pietonii de soare, care trebuie s\u0103 fie puternic \u00een lunile de var\u0103. De asemenea, ne-a pl\u0103cut s\u0103 ne plimb\u0103m de-a lungul Zidurilor Vene\u021biene \u00een form\u0103 de stea, construite \u00een 1567 de Republica Vene\u021bia pentru a proteja ora\u0219ul de Imperiul Otoman (ora\u0219ul a c\u0103zut \u00een 1570, dup\u0103 40 de zile de asediu). A fost interesant s\u0103 citim c\u0103, dup\u0103 ce insula a fost cucerit\u0103 de Imperiul Otoman, mul\u021bi turci s-au mutat \u00een partea de nord a insulei. Ciprio\u021bii greci locuiau \u00een mare parte \u00een sudul insulei, \u00een jurul bisericilor ortodoxe. Am descoperit multe dintre aceste obiective turistice \u00een timpul plimb\u0103rilor noastre pe acolo.<\/p>

Cipru a trecut de la st\u0103p\u00e2nirea otoman\u0103 la administra\u021bia britanic\u0103 \u00een 1878. De atunci, au existat proteste puternice ale ciprio\u021bilor \u00eempotriva domina\u021biei britanice, care s-a \u00eencheiat datorit\u0103 lupt\u0103torilor EOKA. \u00cen memoria acestei eliber\u0103ri, l\u00e2ng\u0103 ora\u0219ul vechi se afl\u0103 un Monument al Libert\u0103\u021bii, numit \u201eMonumentul Eleftheria\u201d, care ne-a f\u0103cut s\u0103 tremur\u0103m \u0219i s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2nem acolo timp de o or\u0103. Pur \u0219i simplu nu ne puteam opri din a privi pozele expresive ale Libert\u0103\u021bii, ale lupt\u0103torilor EOKA \u0219i ale ciprio\u021bilor elibera\u021bi din \u201e\u00eenchisoare\u201d.<\/p>

\u00cen 1960, Nicosia a devenit capitala Republicii Cipru, dar pacea nu a durat mult. \u00cen 1963, ciprio\u021bii greci au propus o modificare a constitu\u021biei, pe care ciprio\u021bii turci nu au acceptat-o. Au urmat multe incidente violente, iar ora\u0219ul a trebuit s\u0103 fie \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit. Grani\u021ba a fost numit\u0103 \u201eLinia Verde\u201d, datorit\u0103 culorii stiloului pe care un ofi\u021ber al Na\u021biunilor Unite l-a folosit pentru a trasa o linie de \u00eencetare a focului pe o hart\u0103 a Ciprului. \u00cen 1974, ciprio\u021bii greci au \u00eencercat s\u0103 reunifice insula, dar au provocat, \u00een schimb, o invazie turc\u0103 \u00een nord. Un an mai t\u00e2rziu, ciprio\u021bii turci au declarat Statul Federat Turc al Ciprului ca fiind \u021bara lor.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Plimbare de-a lungul \u0219i peste \u201eLinia Verde\u201d c\u0103tre Ciprul de Nord<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

C\u00e2nd ne-am plimbat prin sudul Nicosiei, am v\u0103zut \u201eLinia Verde\u201d de multe ori. \u0218i de fiecare dat\u0103 ne-au trecut fiori pe \u0219ira spin\u0103rii. Grani\u021ba nu arat\u0103 la fel \u00een diferite p\u0103r\u021bi ale ora\u0219ului. Uneori, este o paji\u0219te plin\u0103 de flori fragile, mici \u0219i galbene, \u00eenconjurat\u0103 de abatis. Alteori, grani\u021ba trece pe l\u00e2ng\u0103 cl\u0103diri, care acum sunt ruine. Odat\u0103, am v\u0103zut chiar \u0219i o biseric\u0103, a c\u0103rei u\u0219\u0103 din spate se \u00eenvecina cu nordul.<\/p>

Ai putea crede c\u0103, dac\u0103 treci grani\u021ba spre \u201eLefko\u015fa\u201d (a\u0219a cum turcii \u00ee\u0219i numesc capitala), va fi complet diferit fa\u021b\u0103 de sudul Nicosiei. Dar nu este a\u0219a. Oamenii vorbesc o alt\u0103 limb\u0103, sunt mai multe moschei dec\u00e2t biserici ortodoxe, dar via\u021ba se desf\u0103\u0219oar\u0103 la fel ca \u00een sud. \u00centr-un parc chiar la grani\u021b\u0103, copiii se jucau \u0219i r\u00e2deau, p\u0103r\u00e2nd c\u0103 nu observ\u0103 gardurile. Nico \u0219i cu mine nu ne amintim de multe frontiere care s\u0103 fie at\u00e2t de bine p\u0103zite; s-ar putea spune c\u0103 am fost \u201ecopiii Schengenului\u201d.
\nAm vizitat o pia\u021b\u0103 plin\u0103 de oameni \u0219i turi\u0219ti. Puteai cump\u0103ra de acolo o geant\u0103 cu produse Adidas sau Michael Kors pentru doar 20 \u20ac, dar, \u00een afar\u0103 de asta, nu era nimic neobi\u0219nuit \u00een acest loc. Ne-am bucurat, de asemenea, de o plimbare lung\u0103 prin \u00eemprejurimi \u0219i de caravanseraiul B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Hanul Mare), care a fost construit \u00een 1572 ca hotel pentru c\u0103l\u0103tori, dar ast\u0103zi este un loc pentru produse artizanale, magazine de suveniruri \u0219i restaurante. Ceea ce ne-a fermecat \u0219i confer\u0103 caracter acestui loc au fost broderiile colorate care \u00eempletesc balustradele \u0219i b\u0103ncile din pia\u021ba interioar\u0103. Acestea au fost realizate de femei grece\u0219ti \u0219i cipriote pentru a ilustra leg\u0103tura dintre femeile din nordul \u0219i sudul Nicosiei.<\/p>

\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

O anumit\u0103 melancolie nu ne-a p\u0103r\u0103sit niciun moment \u00een Nicosia, dar \u0219tiam care era scopul nostru. Acesta era s\u0103 ar\u0103t\u0103m frumuse\u021bea ambelor p\u0103r\u021bi ale ora\u0219ului desp\u0103r\u021bit de un zid comun \u00een fotografiile noastre, \u00een ciuda situa\u021biei politice. Soarele de diminea\u021b\u0103 \u0219i de dup\u0103-amiaz\u0103 are aceea\u0219i c\u0103ldur\u0103, indiferent dac\u0103 este vorba de strada Ledra din sud sau de B\u00fcy\u00fck Han din nord. Credem c\u0103 ambele locuri merit\u0103 s\u0103 fie prezentate \u00een cea mai bun\u0103 lumin\u0103 \u0219i c\u0103 ambele culturi diferite trebuie respectate. Poate c\u0103 sunt diferite, poate c\u0103 mai exist\u0103 \u00eenc\u0103 triste\u021be \u0219i furie, dar via\u021ba merge mai departe \u2013 copiii se joac\u0103 \u0219i z\u00e2mbesc, oamenii merg la munc\u0103, iar turi\u0219tii se plimb\u0103 pur \u0219i simplu. Nu ni s-a permis s\u0103 facem fotografii ale Liniei Verzi \u2013 dar poate c\u0103 a fost mai bine a\u0219a.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Este dificil s\u0103 scrii despre Cipru f\u0103r\u0103 a st\u00e2rni sentimente sau reac\u021bii polarizate din partea multor europeni, \u00een special a ciprio\u021bilor. Capitala, Nicosia, este \u0219i ast\u0103zi \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bit\u0103 \u00eentre ciprio\u021bii greci \u0219i cei turci, \u0219i nu pare c\u0103 aceste dou\u0103 p\u0103r\u021bi s-ar putea reuni \u00een viitorul apropiat. Nico, fiind originar din Berlin, era fascinat de posibilitatea […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":113557,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[20791,16433,20793],"tags":[20797,20799,20798,20795],"class_list":["post-122438","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cipru","category-ghiduri-de-calatorie","category-nicosia-ro","tag-hotel-ro","tag-meze-ro","tag-perete","tag-strada"],"yoast_head":"\nNicosia \u2013 ora\u0219ul cipriot desp\u0103r\u021bit de un zid<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, fiind berlinez get-beget, era fascinat de faptul c\u0103 un ora\u0219 din Europa poate fi divizat a\u0219a cum a fost odat\u0103 Berlinul. De aceea, Nicosia trebuia s\u0103 ocupe un loc frunta\u0219 pe lista noastr\u0103 de destina\u021bii de vizitat. Ne doream s\u0103 descoperim istoria ora\u0219ului \u0219i s\u0103 ne facem o idee despre cum este s\u0103 tr\u0103ie\u0219ti \u00eentr-un loc desp\u0103r\u021bit de un zid.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/ro\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ro_RO\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Nicosia\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nico, fiind berlinez get-beget, era fascinat de faptul c\u0103 un ora\u0219 din Europa poate fi divizat a\u0219a cum a fost odat\u0103 Berlinul. De aceea, Nicosia trebuia s\u0103 ocupe un loc frunta\u0219 pe lista noastr\u0103 de destina\u021bii de vizitat. 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