{"id":121606,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-lv\/cyprus-nicosia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T19:10:52","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T19:10:52","slug":"nikozija","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/lv\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nikozija"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Ir gr\u016bti rakst\u012bt par Kipru, neizraisot pretrun\u012bgas emocijas vai reakcijas daudziem eiropie\u0161iem, jo \u012bpa\u0161i kiprie\u0161iem. Galvaspils\u0113ta Nikosija joproj\u0101m ir sadal\u012bta starp grie\u0137u un turku kiprie\u0161iem, un ne\u0161\u0137iet, ka \u0161\u012bs divas puses dr\u012bzum\u0101 var\u0113tu atkal apvienoties. <\/strong><\/p>

Niko, k\u0101 \u012bsts berl\u012bnietis, bija fascin\u0113ts par iesp\u0113ju, ka Eiropas Savien\u012bbas pils\u0113tas var\u0113tu b\u016bt tikpat sadal\u012btas, k\u0101 k\u0101dreiz bija Berl\u012bne<\/a>. <\/strong><\/p>

T\u0101p\u0113c Nikosija noteikti bija j\u0101iek\u013cauj m\u016bsu Eiropas galvaspils\u0113tu apmekl\u0113jumu un fotograf\u0113\u0161anas saraksta aug\u0161gal\u012b. M\u0113s v\u0113l\u0113j\u0101mies iepaz\u012bt pils\u0113tas v\u0113sturi un izjust, k\u0101 ir dz\u012bvot viet\u0101, ko sadala siena.<\/strong><\/p>

Nikozija \u2013 sadal\u012bta galvaspils\u0113ta<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

M\u0113s nolaid\u0101mies pils\u0113tas dienvidu da\u013c\u0101 gandr\u012bz jau nakt\u012b. M\u0113s iepriek\u0161 bij\u0101m rezerv\u0113ju\u0161i dz\u012bvokli, k\u0101 ar\u012b transportu no lidostas uz pils\u0113tu. Rezerv\u0113jot, m\u0113s var\u0113j\u0101m nor\u0101d\u012bt t\u0113mas, kur\u0101s v\u0113l\u0113j\u0101mies, lai m\u016bsu \u0161oferis b\u016btu specializ\u0113jies, piem\u0113ram, \u0113dienu gatavo\u0161ana, ekskursijas, v\u0113sture utt. \u2013 bez jokiem.<\/p>

Sieviete, kas m\u016bs sagaid\u012bja, izr\u0101d\u012bj\u0101s bag\u0101t\u012bgs inform\u0101cijas avots un laba pirm\u0101 gide Kipras kult\u016br\u0101. Ce\u013c\u0101 uz pils\u0113tu vi\u0146a st\u0101st\u012bja, ko kiprie\u0161i gatavo, \u0113d un k\u0101 atp\u016b\u0161as. Tom\u0113r t\u0113ma main\u012bj\u0101s, kad tuvoj\u0101mies pils\u0113tai un m\u016bsu acu priek\u0161\u0101 atkl\u0101j\u0101s skats uz turku karogu, kas izveidots no gaism\u0101m uz viena no kalniem. Sieviete \u0161\u0137ita nedaudz satraukta par \u0161o skatu un paskaidroja, ka turki to dara, lai izaicin\u0101tu grie\u0137u kiprie\u0161us.<\/p>

Mums \u0161\u0137ita, ka vajadz\u0113tu pajaut\u0101t, k\u0101das saj\u016btas rada robe\u017eas \u0161\u0137\u0113rso\u0161ana no Nikozijas uz pils\u0113tas zieme\u013cu da\u013cu. Vi\u0146a paskaidroja, ka tas nav nek\u0101ds sare\u017e\u0123\u012bjums, mums vajadz\u0113ja tikai pases. M\u0113s jaut\u0101j\u0101m, vai daudzi cilv\u0113ki \u0161\u0137\u0113rso robe\u017eu, un vi\u0146a atbild\u0113ja, ka to dara daudzi t\u016bristi. M\u0113s jaut\u0101j\u0101m, cik bie\u017ei vi\u0146a pati to dara, un vi\u0146a teica, ka gandr\u012bz nekad. Ne daudzi grie\u0137u kiprie\u0161i to dara vai j\u016bt vajadz\u012bbu to dar\u012bt. M\u0113s zin\u0101j\u0101m faktus par konfliktu Kipr\u0101, bet, pateicoties m\u016bsu pirmajai sarunai ar viet\u0113jo iedz\u012bvot\u0101ju, m\u0113s atkl\u0101j\u0101m, cik gr\u016bts ir \u0161is temats, ka v\u0113sture joproj\u0101m turpin\u0101s un r\u0113tas v\u0113l nav piln\u012bb\u0101 sadziju\u0161as. Neskatoties uz \u0161o zin\u0101\u0161anu, m\u0113s pie\u013c\u0101v\u0101m savu pirmo k\u013c\u016bdu, nosaucot Nikosijas zieme\u013cu da\u013cu par \u201eturku da\u013cu\u201d \u2013 jo salas dienvidu da\u013ca tiek uzskat\u012bta par \u201eokup\u0113to da\u013cu\u201d.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Nikozijas dienvidu da\u013ca<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Nikozijas dienvidu da\u013ca m\u016bs ieinteres\u0113ja jau pirmaj\u0101 vakar\u0101. Iedvesmojoties no m\u016bsu \u0161oferim, kur\u0161 m\u016bs sagaid\u012bja lidost\u0101, mums rad\u0101s v\u0113lme uzreiz izm\u0113\u0123in\u0101t da\u017eus \u201eMeze\u201d (nelielus ga\u013cas vai ve\u0123et\u0101rus \u0113dienus, piem\u0113ram, sal\u0101tus, ceptu ga\u013cu, halloumi sieru). M\u0113s atrad\u0101m nelielu restor\u0101nu nedaudz t\u0101l\u0101k no galven\u0101s Ledra ielas. T\u0101 bija tipiska kiprie\u0161u taverna, kur\u0101 vakaros skan\u0113ja dz\u012bva m\u016bzika. Mums tur \u013coti patika. Un n\u0101kamaj\u0101s dien\u0101s m\u0113s atk\u0101rtoj\u0101m \u0161o pieredzi, atkl\u0101jot da\u017e\u0101das \u201eMeze\u201d vietas.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

N\u0101kam\u0101s divas dienas m\u0113s kl\u012bd\u0101m pa Nikosijas dienvidu da\u013cu. M\u0113s atkl\u0101j\u0101m, ka da\u017eas ielas, \u012bpa\u0161i v\u0113sturisk\u0101 galven\u0101 Ledras iela, bija gudri izpl\u0101notas \u2013 virs iel\u0101m kar\u0101j\u0101s oran\u017eas un dzeltenas buras, kas aizsarg\u0101ja g\u0101j\u0113jus no saules, kurai vasaras m\u0113ne\u0161os noteikti ir sp\u0113c\u012bga. Mums patika ar\u012b pastaig\u0101ties gar Ven\u0113cijas m\u016briem, kas ir zvaigznes form\u0101 un ko 1567. gad\u0101 uzc\u0113la Ven\u0113cijas Republika, lai aizsarg\u0101tu pils\u0113tu no Osma\u0146u imp\u0113rijas (pils\u0113ta krita 1570. gad\u0101 p\u0113c 40 dienu ilga aplenkuma). Bija interesanti las\u012bt, ka p\u0113c tam, kad salu iekaroja Osma\u0146u imp\u0113rija, daudzi turki p\u0101rc\u0113l\u0101s uz salas zieme\u013cu da\u013cu. Grie\u0137u kiprie\u0161i galvenok\u0101rt dz\u012bvoja salas dienvidos, ap pareiztic\u012bgo bazn\u012bc\u0101m. M\u0113s atkl\u0101j\u0101m daudzas no \u0161\u012bm viet\u0101m sav\u0101s pastaig\u0101s tur.<\/p>

1878. gad\u0101 Kipra no Osma\u0146u valdniekiem non\u0101ca britu p\u0101rvald\u012bb\u0101. Kop\u0161 t\u0101 laika notika sp\u0113c\u012bgi kiprie\u0161u protesti pret britu vald\u012b\u0161anu, kas beidz\u0101s pateicoties EOKA kaujiniekiem. \u0160\u012bs atbr\u012bvo\u0161anas piemi\u0146ai pie vecpils\u0113tas st\u0101v Br\u012bv\u012bbas piemineklis, saukts par \u201eEleftheria pieminekli\u201d, kas mums lika satr\u016bkties un st\u0101v\u0113t tur stundu. M\u0113s vienk\u0101r\u0161i nevar\u0113j\u0101m beigt skat\u012bties uz Br\u012bv\u012bbas, EOKA kaujinieku un no \u201ecietuma\u201d atbr\u012bvoto kiprie\u0161u izteiksm\u012bgaj\u0101m poz\u0101m.<\/p>

1960. gad\u0101 Nikosija k\u013cuva par Kipras Republikas galvaspils\u0113tu, bet miers ilga neilgi. 1963. gad\u0101 grie\u0137u kiprie\u0161i ierosin\u0101ja konstit\u016bcijas groz\u012bjumu, ko turku kiprie\u0161i nepie\u0146\u0113ma. P\u0113c tam notika daudzi vardarb\u012bgi incidenti, un pils\u0113ta bija j\u0101sadala. Robe\u017eu nosauca par \u201eZa\u013co l\u012bniju\u201d p\u0113c tintes kr\u0101sas, ko k\u0101ds ANO darbinieks izmantoja, lai uz Kipras kartes iez\u012bm\u0113tu pamieru l\u012bniju. 1974. gad\u0101 grie\u0137u kiprie\u0161i m\u0113\u0123in\u0101ja atkal apvienot salu, ta\u010du t\u0101 viet\u0101 izrais\u012bja turku iebrukumu zieme\u013cos. Gadu v\u0113l\u0101k turku kiprie\u0161i pasludin\u0101ja Turku Kipras Federat\u012bvo Valsti par savu valsti.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Pastaiga gar un p\u0101ri \u201eZa\u013cajai l\u012bnijai\u201d uz Zieme\u013cu Kipru<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

Kad m\u0113s pastaig\u0101j\u0101mies pa Nikosijas dienvidu da\u013cu, bie\u017ei redz\u0113j\u0101m \u201eZa\u013co l\u012bniju\u201d. Un katru reizi mums pa muguru skr\u0113ja drebu\u013ci. Robe\u017ea da\u017e\u0101d\u0101s pils\u0113tas da\u013c\u0101s neizskat\u0101s vien\u0101di. Da\u017ereiz t\u0101 ir p\u013cava, pilna ar trausliem, maziem, dzelteniem ziediem, ko ieskauj \u017eogs. Da\u017ereiz robe\u017ea stiepjas gar \u0113k\u0101m, kas tagad ir drupas. Reiz m\u0113s pat redz\u0113j\u0101m bazn\u012bcu, kuras aizmugur\u0113j\u0101s durvis robe\u017eoj\u0101s ar zieme\u013ciem.<\/p>

J\u016bs var\u0113tu dom\u0101t, ka, \u0161\u0137\u0113rsojot robe\u017eu uz \u201eLefko\u0161a\u201d (k\u0101 turki sauc savu galvaspils\u0113tu), tur viss b\u016bs piln\u012bgi at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bgs no Nikosijas dienvidiem. Bet t\u0101 nav. Cilv\u0113ki run\u0101 cit\u0101 valod\u0101, tur ir vair\u0101k mo\u0161eju nek\u0101 pareiztic\u012bgo bazn\u012bcu, bet dz\u012bve rit t\u0101pat k\u0101 dienvidos. Vien\u0101 park\u0101 tie\u0161i pie robe\u017eas b\u0113rni sp\u0113l\u0113j\u0101s un sm\u0113j\u0101s, izskat\u012bj\u0101s, ka vi\u0146i pat nepamana \u017eogus. Nico un es neatceramies daudz robe\u017eu, kas b\u016btu tik labi apsarg\u0101tas; var\u0113tu teikt, ka m\u0113s esam \u201e\u0160engenas b\u0113rni\u201d.
\nM\u0113s apmekl\u0113j\u0101m tirgus laukumu, kas bija pilns ar cilv\u0113kiem un t\u016bristiem. Tur var\u0113ja nopirkt maisi\u0146u ar Adidas vai Michael Kors prec\u0113m tikai par 20 eiro, bet, iz\u0146emot to, \u0161aj\u0101 viet\u0101 nebija nekas neparasts. M\u0113s ar\u012b izbaud\u012bj\u0101m garu pastaigu pa apk\u0101rtni un apmekl\u0113j\u0101m karavansaraju B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Liel\u0101 viesn\u012bca), kas tika uzcelta 1572. gad\u0101 k\u0101 viesn\u012bca ce\u013cot\u0101jiem, bet \u0161odien t\u0101 ir vieta, kur atrodas rokdarbu veikali, suven\u012bru veikali un restor\u0101ni. Mums \u0161\u0137ita burv\u012bgi, ka \u0161ai vietai raksturu pie\u0161\u0137ir kr\u0101sainie iz\u0161uvumi, kas vij\u0101s pa laukuma iek\u0161pus\u0113 eso\u0161aj\u0101m marg\u0101m un soli\u0146iem. Tos izgatavoja grie\u0137u un kiprie\u0161u sievietes, lai par\u0101d\u012btu saikni starp Nikosijas zieme\u013cu un dienvidu sieviet\u0113m.<\/p>

\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

Nikosij\u0101 m\u016bs ne mirkli nepametusi zin\u0101ma melanholija, ta\u010du m\u0113s zin\u0101j\u0101m, k\u0101ds ir m\u016bsu m\u0113r\u0137is. Tas bija par\u0101d\u012bt fotogr\u0101fij\u0101s abu kop\u0113j\u0101s sienas pils\u0113tas da\u013cu skaistumu, neskatoties uz politisko situ\u0101ciju. P\u0113cpusdienas un r\u012bta saules stari ir vien\u0101di silti, neatkar\u012bgi no t\u0101, vai tas ir Ledras iela dienvidos vai B\u00fcy\u00fck Han zieme\u013cos. M\u0113s uzskat\u0101m, ka abas vietas ir peln\u012bju\u0161as tikt par\u0101d\u012btas no lab\u0101k\u0101s puses un abas kult\u016bras ir j\u0101ciena. T\u0101s varb\u016bt ir at\u0161\u0137ir\u012bgas, varb\u016bt joproj\u0101m valda skumjas un dusmas, bet dz\u012bve turpin\u0101s \u2013 b\u0113rni sp\u0113l\u0113jas un smaida, cilv\u0113ki dodas uz darbu, un t\u016bristi vienk\u0101r\u0161i pastaig\u0101jas. Mums nebija at\u013cauts fotograf\u0113t Za\u013co l\u012bniju \u2013 bet varb\u016bt t\u0101 bija pat lab\u0101k.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ir gr\u016bti rakst\u012bt par Kipru, neizraisot pretrun\u012bgas emocijas vai reakcijas daudziem eiropie\u0161iem, jo \u012bpa\u0161i kiprie\u0161iem. Galvaspils\u0113ta Nikosija joproj\u0101m ir sadal\u012bta starp grie\u0137u un turku kiprie\u0161iem, un ne\u0161\u0137iet, ka \u0161\u012bs divas puses dr\u012bzum\u0101 var\u0113tu atkal apvienoties. Niko, k\u0101 \u012bsts berl\u012bnietis, bija fascin\u0113ts par iesp\u0113ju, ka Eiropas Savien\u012bbas pils\u0113tas var\u0113tu b\u016bt tikpat sadal\u012btas, k\u0101 k\u0101dreiz bija Berl\u012bne. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":110609,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16378,20709,20710],"tags":[20711,20714,20713,20712],"class_list":["post-121606","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-celojumu-celvezi","category-kipra","category-nikosija","tag-ielas","tag-meze-lv","tag-sienas","tag-viesnica"],"yoast_head":"\nNikozija \u2013 Kipras pils\u0113ta, ko sadala siena<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Niko, b\u016bdams \u012bsts berli\u0146ietis, bija aizr\u0101vies ar domu, ka k\u0101da Eiropas pils\u0113ta var b\u016bt sadal\u012bta t\u0101pat k\u0101 k\u0101dreiz Berl\u012bne. T\u0101p\u0113c Nikosija noteikti bija viena no m\u016bsu galvenaj\u0101m apmekl\u0113jamo vietu saraksta galvgal\u012b. M\u0113s v\u0113l\u0113j\u0101mies iepaz\u012bt \u0161\u012bs pils\u0113tas v\u0113sturi un izjust, k\u0101 tas ir \u2013 dz\u012bvot viet\u0101, ko sadala siena.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/lv\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"lv_LV\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Nikozija\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Niko, b\u016bdams \u012bsts berli\u0146ietis, bija aizr\u0101vies ar domu, ka k\u0101da Eiropas pils\u0113ta var b\u016bt sadal\u012bta t\u0101pat k\u0101 k\u0101dreiz Berl\u012bne. 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