{"id":121845,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-lt\/cyprus-nicosia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T15:23:32","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T15:23:32","slug":"nikozija","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/lt\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nikozija"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Sunku ra\u0161yti apie Kipr\u0105 nesukeliant prie\u0161taring\u0173 emocij\u0173 ar reakcij\u0173 daugeliui europie\u010di\u0173, ypa\u010d kiprie\u010diams. Sostin\u0117 Nikosija iki \u0161iol yra padalyta tarp graik\u0173 ir turk\u0173 kiprie\u010di\u0173, ir neatrodo, kad \u0161ios dvi pus\u0117s artimiausiu metu gal\u0117t\u0173 susivienyti. <\/strong><\/p>

Nico, kaip tikras berlynietis, buvo su\u017eav\u0117tas tuo, kad Europos S\u0105jungos miestai gali b\u016bti tokie pat susiskald\u0119, kaip kadaise buvo Berlynas<\/a>. <\/strong><\/p>

Tod\u0117l Nikosija tur\u0117jo b\u016bti viena i\u0161 pirm\u0173j\u0173 m\u016bs\u0173 s\u0105ra\u0161e, kur\u012f sudar\u0117me nor\u0117dami aplankyti ir nufotografuoti visas Europos sostines. Nor\u0117jome atrasti miesto istorij\u0105 ir pajusti, kaip yra gyventi vietoje, kuri\u0105 skiria siena.<\/strong><\/p>

Nikosija \u2013 padalinta sostin\u0117<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

Mes nusileidome pietin\u0117je miesto dalyje beveik nakt\u012f. I\u0161 anksto u\u017esisak\u0117me but\u0105 ir transport\u0105 i\u0161 oro uosto \u012f miest\u0105. U\u017esakydami gal\u0117jome nurodyti temas, kuriose nor\u0117jome, kad m\u016bs\u0173 vairuotojas b\u016bt\u0173 specialistas, pavyzd\u017eiui, maisto gaminimas, lankytinos vietos, istorija ir pan. \u2013 be jokios abejon\u0117s.<\/p>

M\u016bs\u0173 pa\u0117musi moteris pasirod\u0117 esanti turtingas informacijos \u0161altinis ir puiki pirmoji gidas \u012f Kipro kult\u016br\u0105. Kelyje \u012f miest\u0105 ji paai\u0161kino, k\u0105 kiprie\u010diai gamina, valgo ir kaip leid\u017eia laisvalaik\u012f. Ta\u010diau tema pasikeit\u0117, kai priart\u0117jome prie miesto ir prie\u0161 m\u016bs\u0173 akis atsiv\u0117r\u0117 vaizdas \u012f viename i\u0161 kalv\u0173 i\u0161 \u0161vies\u0173 sudaryt\u0105 Turkijos v\u0117liav\u0105. Moteris atrod\u0117 \u0161iek tiek sutrikusi d\u0117l \u0161io vaizdo ir paai\u0161kino, kad turkai tai daro nor\u0117dami paerzinti graik\u0173 kiprie\u010dius.<\/p>

Pajutome, kad turime paklausti, kaip jau\u010diasi kertant Nikosijos sien\u0105 \u012f \u0161iaurin\u0119 miesto dal\u012f. Ji paai\u0161kino, kad tai n\u0117ra problema, mums tiesiog reikia pas\u0173. Paklaus\u0117me, ar daug \u017emoni\u0173 kerta sien\u0105, ir ji atsak\u0117, kad tai daro daug turist\u0173. Paklaus\u0117me, kaip da\u017enai ji j\u0105 kerta, ir ji atsak\u0117, kad beveik niekada. Nedaug graik\u0173 kiprie\u010di\u0173 tai daro ar jau\u010dia poreik\u012f tai daryti. \u017dinojome faktus apie konflikt\u0105 Kipre, bet po pirmojo pokalbio su vietine gyventoja supratome, kokia sud\u0117tinga yra \u0161i tema, kad istorija vis dar t\u0119siasi ir \u017eaizdos dar n\u0117ra visi\u0161kai u\u017egijusios. Nepaisydami to, padar\u0117me pirm\u0105j\u0105 klaid\u0105, pavadin\u0119 \u0161iaurin\u0119 Nikosijos dal\u012f \u201eturk\u0173 dalimi\u201c \u2013 nes pietin\u0117 salos dalis laikoma \u201eokupuota dalimi\u201c.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Nikozijos piet\u016bs<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Pietin\u0117 Nikosijos dalis mus su\u017eav\u0117jo jau pirm\u0105j\u012f vakar\u0105. \u012ekv\u0117pti m\u016bs\u0173 vairuotojo, kuris mus pa\u0117m\u0117 i\u0161 oro uosto, pajutome nor\u0105 i\u0161kart paragauti \u201eMeze\u201c (ma\u017e\u0173 m\u0117sos ar vegetari\u0161k\u0173 patiekal\u0173, pavyzd\u017eiui, salot\u0173, kepintos m\u0117sos, halloumi s\u016brio). Radome nedidel\u0119 u\u017eeig\u0105 \u0161iek tiek atokiau nuo pagrindin\u0117s Ledra gatv\u0117s. Tai buvo tipi\u0161ka kiprie\u010di\u0173 taverna, kurioje vakarais grojo gyva muzika. Ten labai gerai praleidome laik\u0105. Ir per ateinan\u010dias kelias dienas kartojome \u0161i\u0105 patirt\u012f, atrandami \u012fvairias \u201eMeze\u201c vietas.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

Per kitas dvi dienas vaik\u0161\u010diojome po pietin\u0119 Nikosijos dal\u012f. Pasteb\u0117jome, kad kai kurios gatv\u0117s, ypa\u010d istorin\u0117 pagrindin\u0117 Ledra gatv\u0117, buvo sumaniai suprojektuotos \u2013 vir\u0161 gatvi\u0173 kab\u0117jo oran\u017einiai ir geltoni tentai, saugantys p\u0117s\u010diuosius nuo saul\u0117s, kuri vasaros m\u0117nesiais \u010dia tikriausiai b\u016bna labai stipri. Mums taip pat patiko vaik\u0161\u010dioti palei \u017evaig\u017ed\u0117s formos Venecijos sienas, pastatytas 1567 m. Venecijos Respublikos, siekiant apsaugoti miest\u0105 nuo Osman\u0173 imperijos (miestas krito 1570 m., po 40 dien\u0173 apgulties). Buvo \u012fdomu skaityti, kad po to, kai sal\u0105 u\u017ekariavo Osman\u0173 imperija, daug turk\u0173 persik\u0117l\u0117 \u012f salos \u0161iaurin\u0119 dal\u012f. Graik\u0173 kiprie\u010diai daugiausia gyveno salos pietuose, aplink sta\u010diatiki\u0173 ba\u017eny\u010dias. Daugel\u012f \u0161i\u0173 paminkl\u0173 atradome savo pasivaik\u0161\u010diojim\u0173 metu.<\/p>

1878 m. Kipras i\u0161 Osman\u0173 valdov\u0173 per\u0117jo \u012f Brit\u0173 administracij\u0105. Nuo tada kiprie\u010diai reng\u0117 stiprius protestus prie\u0161 brit\u0173 vald\u017ei\u0105, kuri baig\u0117si d\u0117ka EOKA kovotoj\u0173. \u0160io i\u0161silaisvinimo atminimui senamies\u010dio pakra\u0161tyje stovi Laisv\u0117s paminklas, vadinamas \u201eEleftheria paminklu\u201c, kuris mus sujaudino ir privert\u0117 ten stov\u0117ti valand\u0105. Mes tiesiog negal\u0117jome nusiimti aki\u0173 nuo i\u0161rai\u0161king\u0173 Laisv\u0117s, EOKA kovotoj\u0173 ir i\u0161 \u201ekal\u0117jimo\u201c i\u0161laisvinam\u0173 kiprie\u010di\u0173 poz\u0173.<\/p>

1960 m. Nikosija tapo Kipro Respublikos sostine, ta\u010diau taika truko neilgai. 1963 m. graik\u0173 kiprie\u010diai pasi\u016bl\u0117 konstitucijos patais\u0105, kurios turk\u0173 kiprie\u010diai nepri\u0117m\u0117. Po to \u012fvyko daug smurtini\u0173 incident\u0173, ir miest\u0105 teko padalyti. Siena buvo pavadinta \u201e\u017dali\u0105ja linija\u201c d\u0117l ra\u0161iklio spalvos, kuriuo vienas Jungtini\u0173 Taut\u0173 pareig\u016bnas nubr\u0117\u017e\u0117 ugnies nutraukimo linij\u0105 Kipro \u017eem\u0117lapyje. 1974 m. graik\u0173 kiprie\u010diai band\u0117 suvienyti sal\u0105, ta\u010diau vietoj to suk\u0117l\u0117 turk\u0173 invazij\u0105 \u012f \u0161iaur\u0119. Po met\u0173 turk\u0173 kiprie\u010diai paskelb\u0117 Turkijos Kipro Federacin\u0119 Valstyb\u0119 savo \u0161alimi.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Pasivaik\u0161\u010diojimas palei ir per \u201e\u017dali\u0105j\u0105 linij\u0105\u201c \u012f \u0160iaur\u0117s Kipr\u0105<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

Kai vaik\u0161\u010diojome po pietin\u0119 Nikosijos dal\u012f, da\u017enai mat\u0117me \u201e\u017dali\u0105j\u0105 linij\u0105\u201c. Ir kiekvien\u0105 kart\u0105 mums nugar\u0105 perb\u0117gdavo \u0161iurpuliukai. Sienos vaizdas skirtingose miesto dalyse skiriasi. Kartais tai pieva, pilna trapusi\u0173, ma\u017e\u0173, gelton\u0173 g\u0117li\u0173, apsupta u\u017etvar\u0173. Kartais siena eina palei pastatus, kurie dabar jau yra griuv\u0117siai. Kart\u0105 net pamat\u0117me ba\u017eny\u010di\u0105, kurios galin\u0117s durys ribojosi su \u0161iaurine dalimi.<\/p>

Galb\u016bt manote, kad jei per\u017eengsite sien\u0105 \u012f \u201eLefko\u0161\u0105\u201c (taip turkai vadina savo sostin\u0119), ten viskas bus visi\u0161kai kitaip nei pietin\u0117je Nikosijos dalyje. Ta\u010diau taip n\u0117ra. \u017dmon\u0117s kalba kita kalba, \u010dia daugiau me\u010de\u010di\u0173 nei sta\u010diatiki\u0173 ba\u017eny\u010di\u0173, bet gyvenimas teka taip pat, kaip ir pietuose. Viename parke, esan\u010diame tiesiog prie sienos, vaikai \u017eaid\u0117 ir juok\u0117si, atrodydami taip, lyg nepasteb\u0117t\u0173 tvor\u0173. Nico ir a\u0161 neprisimename daug sien\u0173, kurios b\u016bt\u0173 taip gerai saugomos, galima sakyti, kad buvome \u201e\u0160engeno vaikai\u201c.<\/p>

Aplank\u0117me turgaus aik\u0161t\u0119, kuri buvo pilna \u017emoni\u0173 ir turist\u0173. Ten u\u017e vos 20 \u20ac buvo galima nusipirkti mai\u0161el\u012f \u201eAdidas\u201c ar \u201eMichael Kors\u201c preki\u0173, bet, i\u0161skyrus tai, \u0161ioje vietoje nebuvo nieko ne\u012fprasto. Mums taip pat patiko ilgas pasivaik\u0161\u010diojimas aplink ir karavansarajus \u201eB\u00fcy\u00fck Han\u201c (Didysis vie\u0161butis), kuris buvo pastatytas 1572 m. kaip vie\u0161butis keliautojams, ta\u010diau \u0161iandien tai vieta, kurioje \u012fsik\u016brusios rank\u0173 darbo dirbini\u0173 ir suvenyr\u0173 parduotuv\u0117s bei restoranai. Mums ypa\u010d patiko spalvingi siuvin\u0117jimai, apipyn\u0119 aik\u0161t\u0117s viduje esan\u010dias tur\u0117kles ir suolus \u2013 b\u016btent jie suteikia \u0161iai vietai savito \u017eavesio. Juos suk\u016br\u0117 graik\u0173 ir kiprie\u010di\u0173 moterys, nor\u0117damos parodyti ry\u0161\u012f tarp Nikosijos \u0161iaur\u0117s ir piet\u0173 moter\u0173.
\n\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

Nikosijoje mus vis\u0105 laik\u0105 lyd\u0117jo tam tikra melancholija, ta\u010diau \u017einojome, koks yra m\u016bs\u0173 tikslas. Nepaisant politin\u0117s situacijos, nor\u0117jome savo nuotraukose parodyti abiej\u0173 bendros sienos miesto dali\u0173 gro\u017e\u012f. Popiet\u0117s ir ryto saul\u0117 \u0161ildo vienodai, nesvarbu, ar tai b\u016bt\u0173 Ledra gatv\u0117 pietuose, ar \u201eB\u00fcy\u00fck Han\u201c \u0161iaur\u0117je. Manome, kad abi vietos vertos b\u016bti parodytos i\u0161 geriausios pus\u0117s, o abi skirtingos kult\u016bros turi b\u016bti gerbiamos. Jos gali b\u016bti skirtingos, gali vis dar b\u016bti \u0161iek tiek li\u016bdesio ir pyk\u010dio, bet gyvenimas t\u0119siasi \u2013 vaikai \u017eaid\u017eia ir \u0161ypsosi, \u017emon\u0117s eina \u012f darb\u0105, o turistai tiesiog vaik\u0161to. Mums nebuvo leista fotografuoti \u017daliosios linijos \u2013 bet galb\u016bt taip buvo geriau.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sunku ra\u0161yti apie Kipr\u0105 nesukeliant prie\u0161taring\u0173 emocij\u0173 ar reakcij\u0173 daugeliui europie\u010di\u0173, ypa\u010d kiprie\u010diams. Sostin\u0117 Nikosija iki \u0161iol yra padalyta tarp graik\u0173 ir turk\u0173 kiprie\u010di\u0173, ir neatrodo, kad \u0161ios dvi pus\u0117s artimiausiu metu gal\u0117t\u0173 susivienyti. Nico, kaip tikras berlynietis, buvo su\u017eav\u0117tas tuo, kad Europos S\u0105jungos miestai gali b\u016bti tokie pat susiskald\u0119, kaip kadaise buvo Berlynas. Tod\u0117l […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":112037,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16425,20735,20736],"tags":[20737,20740,20739,20738],"class_list":["post-121845","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kelioniu-vadovai","category-kipras","category-nikosija-lt","tag-gatve","tag-meze-lt","tag-sienele","tag-viesbutis"],"yoast_head":"\nNikosija \u2013 Kipro miestas, padalytas siena<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, kaip tikras berlynietis, buvo su\u017eav\u0117tas tuo, kad Europoje gali b\u016bti miestas, padalytas taip, kaip kadaise buvo Berlynas. Tod\u0117l Nikosija tur\u0117jo b\u016bti viena i\u0161 pirm\u0173j\u0173 viet\u0173 m\u016bs\u0173 lankytin\u0173 viet\u0173 s\u0105ra\u0161e. Nor\u0117jome susipa\u017einti su miesto istorija ir pajusti, kaip yra gyventi vietoje, kuri\u0105 skiria siena.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/lt\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"lt_LT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Nikozija\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nico, kaip tikras berlynietis, buvo su\u017eav\u0117tas tuo, kad Europoje gali b\u016bti miestas, padalytas taip, kaip kadaise buvo Berlynas. Tod\u0117l Nikosija tur\u0117jo b\u016bti viena i\u0161 pirm\u0173j\u0173 viet\u0173 m\u016bs\u0173 lankytin\u0173 viet\u0173 s\u0105ra\u0161e. 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