{"id":90921,"date":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","date_gmt":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-hu\/montenegro-podgorica\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T01:30:23","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T01:30:23","slug":"podgorica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/hu\/travelpodgorica\/","title":{"rendered":"Podgorica"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Egy olyan hely, amely nem pr\u00f3b\u00e1l m\u00e1snak l\u00e1tszani \u2013 p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul egy \u201emen\u0151 nyugati nagyv\u00e1rosnak\u201d \u2013, csak az\u00e9rt, hogy turist\u00e1kat vonzzon. Olyan, amilyen: egy kicsi, hangulatos f\u0151v\u00e1ros, bar\u00e1ts\u00e1gos \u00e9s sz\u00edv\u00e9lyes lak\u00f3kkal, mert \u0151k eleve ilyenek, \u00e9s nem az\u00e9rt, mert te idegen vagy. <\/strong><\/p>

\u00c9s a \u201eturisztikai\u201d l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyoss\u00e1gok nem a legjobbak, amit Podgorica k\u00edn\u00e1l. Van ebben a v\u00e1rosban egyfajta melankolikus sz\u00e9ps\u00e9g, amelyet csak \u00fagy fedezhet fel az ember, ha csendben s\u00e9t\u00e1l az utc\u00e1kon, an\u00e9lk\u00fcl, hogy a siet\u0151, hangos csoportok zavarn\u00e1k.<\/strong><\/p>

Podgorica (\u201eegy kis domb alatt\u201d) <\/strong><\/h2>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Amikor \u00fagy d\u00f6nt\u00f6tt\u00fcnk, hogy a 2017-es szilvesztert bar\u00e1tainkkal Podgoric\u00e1ban, Montenegr\u00f3<\/a> f\u0151v\u00e1ros\u00e1ban \u00fcnnepelj\u00fck, be kell vallanom, kiss\u00e9 szkeptikus voltam. Az els\u0151 gondolatom az volt, hogy \u201efigyelembe v\u00e9ve a v\u00e1ros m\u00e9ret\u00e9t (220 ezer lakos), p\u00e1r \u00f3ra alatt v\u00e9gz\u00fcnk a v\u00e1rosn\u00e9z\u00e9ssel\u201d. A m\u00e1sodik gondolatom (szerencs\u00e9re) optimist\u00e1bb volt: \u201ede ebben az esetben t\u00f6bb id\u0151nk lesz megk\u00f3stolni a montenegr\u00f3i borokat\u201d.<\/p>

Amikor kora d\u00e9lut\u00e1n meg\u00e9rkezt\u00fcnk Podgoric\u00e1ba, hatalmas v\u00e1ltoz\u00e1st \u00e9rezt\u00fcnk a berlini<\/a> otthonunkhoz k\u00e9pest. El\u0151sz\u00f6r is, naps\u00fct\u00e9s volt (t\u00e9l\u00e9n Berlinben ritkas\u00e1gsz\u00e1mba megy a napf\u00e9ny). M\u00e1sodszor, a v\u00e1rosban nem volt rohan\u00e1s. Alig l\u00e1ttunk j\u00e1r\u00f3kel\u0151ket a hangulatos utc\u00e1kon.<\/p>

Akkoriban a legt\u00f6bb \u00fczlet z\u00e1rva volt, kiv\u00e9ve a k\u00e1v\u00e9z\u00f3kat \u00e9s n\u00e9h\u00e1ny italboltot (ahov\u00e1 be is ugrottunk, hogy vegy\u00fcnk n\u00e9h\u00e1ny helyi italt). A piact\u00e9ren \u00e9pp egy koncertsz\u00ednpadot \u00e1ll\u00edtottak fel a m\u00e1snapi szilveszteri bulira. A gyerekek a sz\u00f6k\u0151k\u00fatb\u00f3l kifoly\u00f3 v\u00edzzel fr\u00f6csk\u00f6ltek, \u00e9s a hideg ellen\u00e9re z\u00f6ld p\u00e1lmaf\u00e1k n\u0151ttek ki a betonburkolat\u00fa utc\u00e1kb\u00f3l. A rohan\u00f3 berlini \u00e9let ut\u00e1n ezek a jelenetek szinte lass\u00edtott felv\u00e9telnek t\u0171ntek sz\u00e1munkra.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Egy r\u00f6vid s\u00e9t\u00e1t k\u00f6vet\u0151en tal\u00e1ltunk egy \u00edg\u00e9retesnek t\u0171n\u0151 k\u00e1v\u00e9z\u00f3t. B\u00e1r nem volt el\u00e9g hely egy 7 f\u0151s csoport sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra, a pinc\u00e9rek \u00e1trendezt\u00e9k az asztalokat, hogy egy\u00fctt \u00fclhess\u00fcnk \u2013 ez j\u00f3 els\u0151 benyom\u00e1st keltett. A m\u00e1sodik j\u00f3 benyom\u00e1s az \u00e9tel volt \u2013 az adagokat szinte lehetetlen volt egy \u00fcl\u00e9s alatt megenni, \u00e9s minden megfizethet\u0151 \u00e1ron volt. A k\u00e1v\u00e9z\u00f3 tele volt, \u00e9s a b\u00e1r felett l\u00f3g\u00f3 t\u00e9v\u00e9b\u0151l modern balk\u00e1ni zene sz\u00f3lt.<\/p>

Ahogy k\u00e9s\u0151bb kider\u00fclt, ez a fajta elektronikus zene kiz\u00e1r\u00f3lag erre a vid\u00e9kre volt jellemz\u0151. Szinte minden b\u00e1rban \u00e9s \u00e9tteremben, ahov\u00e1 bet\u00e9rt\u00fcnk, volt legal\u00e1bb egy t\u00e9v\u00e9, amelyen videoklipeket lehetett n\u00e9zni, amelyekben gy\u00f6ny\u00f6r\u0171, n\u00e9ha f\u00e9lmeztelen n\u0151k t\u00e1ncoltak a modern elektro zene ritmus\u00e1ra, amit n\u00e9ha n\u00e9pzenei hangokkal kevertek.<\/p>

Egy olyan kombin\u00e1ci\u00f3, amit neh\u00e9z le\u00edrni, hacsak nem hallottad saj\u00e1t f\u00fcleddel. Annak ellen\u00e9re, hogy a fejemben a feminista \u00e9nem tiltakozott (\u201emi\u00e9rt kell a n\u0151knek meztelennek lenni\u00fck?\u201d), volt valami elb\u0171v\u00f6l\u0151 abban a hangz\u00e1svil\u00e1gban, ami mindenhov\u00e1 k\u00f6vetett minket. Sehol m\u00e1shol nem tapasztaltam m\u00e9g ilyen m\u00e9rt\u00e9k\u0171 hi\u00e1ny\u00e1t a n\u00e9pszer\u0171 nemzetk\u00f6zi zen\u00e9nek, \u00e9s ilyen m\u00e9rt\u00e9k\u0171 \u00f6sszpontos\u00edt\u00e1st a helyi zenekarokra.<\/p>\"Vladimir<\/a>

Ha valaki a balk\u00e1ni konyha rajong\u00f3ja \u00e9s nem veget\u00e1ri\u00e1nus, Podgorica igazi paradicsom. A leggyakoribb h\u00fas\u00e9telek, amelyeket kipr\u00f3b\u00e1ltunk, a \u0106evapi, a Pljeskavica (egy helyi hamburger) \u00e9s a Ra\u017enji\u0107i voltak, amelyeket sz\u00e1mos \u00e9tteremben, de utcai \u00e9telk\u00e9nt is meg lehet kapni. Gyakorlatilag minden, amiben h\u00fas volt, szerepelt az \u00e9tlapon. Ezen k\u00edv\u00fcl felfedezt\u00fcnk egy \u00fajabb v\u00e1ltozat\u00e1t a \u201esajt a tetej\u00e9n\u201d \u00e9telnek \u2013 a Njegu\u0161ki sir-t \u2013, amely olajban tart\u00f3s\u00edtott sajt. Ezek az \u00e9telek nagyon j\u00f3l illettek a montenegr\u00f3i feh\u00e9r- \u00e9s v\u00f6r\u00f6sborokhoz, amelyek a Vranac sz\u0151l\u0151fajt\u00e1b\u00f3l k\u00e9sz\u00fclnek \u2013 ez egy \u0151si sz\u0151l\u0151fajta, amely Maced\u00f3ni\u00e1ra, Szerbi\u00e1ra \u00e9s Montenegr\u00f3ra jellemz\u0151, \u00e9s amelyet f\u0151k\u00e9nt Montenegr\u00f3ban, Podgorica k\u00f6rny\u00e9k\u00e9n termesztenek.<\/p>

K\u00e9t napunk volt a v\u00e1rosn\u00e9z\u00e9sre. A tiszta k\u00e9k \u00e9gboltnak k\u00f6sz\u00f6nhet\u0151en l\u00e1thattuk a v\u00e1rosra n\u00e9z\u0151 Gorica-dombot (amelyr\u0151l a v\u00e1ros a nev\u00e9t kapta). Mindenki levonhatja a saj\u00e1t k\u00f6vetkeztet\u00e9seit Montenegr\u00f3 (\u201efekete hegy\u201d) nev\u00e9vel kapcsolatban, mivel a f\u0151v\u00e1ros val\u00f3j\u00e1ban egy s\u00edk ter\u00fcleten fekszik. Podgoric\u00e1t k\u00e9t foly\u00f3 veszi k\u00f6r\u00fcl: a Mora\u010da \u00e9s a Ribnica. Az els\u0151 a v\u00e1ros k\u00f6zep\u00e9n h\u00faz\u00f3d\u00f3 v\u00f6lgyben kanyarog, \u00e9s kellemes \u00e9lm\u00e9ny volt s\u00e9t\u00e1lni a t\u00fcrkizk\u00e9k viz\u00e9nek partj\u00e1n, amely kontrasztot alkotott a partot bor\u00edt\u00f3 feh\u00e9r k\u00f6vekkel.<\/p>

\u00c9p\u00edt\u00e9szet<\/h2>\"The<\/a>

Podgorica \u00e9p\u00edt\u00e9szet\u00e9t szint\u00e9n nem k\u00f6nny\u0171 le\u00edrni. A v\u00e1rosra a v\u00e1ltoz\u00f3 rendszerek nyomai l\u00e1tszanak. A v\u00e1ros legr\u00e9gebbi r\u00e9sze nem olyan, mint m\u00e1s v\u00e1rosokban. Szinte kiz\u00e1r\u00f3lag lak\u00f3\u00f6vezet, r\u00e9gi h\u00e1zakkal \u00e9s keskeny utc\u00e1kkal. Az Oszm\u00e1n Birodalom korszaka is nyomot hagyott ezen a helyen \u2013 k\u00e9t mecsetet \u00e9s egy fest\u0151i \u00f3ratornyot tal\u00e1ltunk ott. K\u00fcl\u00f6nleges \u00e9lm\u00e9ny volt sz\u00e1munkra \u00f6sszehasonl\u00edtani ezt azzal a hellyel, ahol Nova Varo\u0161ban (\u201e\u00fajv\u00e1ros\u201d) sz\u00e1lltunk meg, ahol az utc\u00e1k olyan sz\u00e9lesek voltak, mint m\u00e1s eur\u00f3pai v\u00e1rosokban.<\/p>

A m\u00e1sodik vil\u00e1gh\u00e1bor\u00fa alatt Podgorica szinte a f\u00f6lddel v\u00e1lt egyenl\u0151v\u00e9, majd a kommunista blokkhoz tartoz\u00f3 jugoszl\u00e1v v\u00e1rosk\u00e9nt \u00e9p\u00fclt \u00fajj\u00e1 (a v\u00e1rost akkor \u201eTitogradnak\u201d nevezt\u00e9k \u2013 Josif Brod Tito, Jugoszl\u00e1via eln\u00f6ke tisztelet\u00e9re). Azok a lak\u00f3t\u00f6mb\u00f6k jellemz\u0151ek voltak erre a korszakra, \u00e9s sok helyen \u00e9l\u00e9nk sz\u00ednekkel festett\u00e9k \u0151ket, ami \u00e9l\u00e9nkebb megjelen\u00e9st k\u00f6lcs\u00f6nz\u00f6tt a v\u00e1rosnak. A 90-es \u00e9vekt\u0151l kezd\u0151d\u00f6tt a v\u00e1rosi forradalom, \u00e9s \u00faj ac\u00e9l- \u00e9s \u00fcveg\u00e9p\u00fcletek \u00e9p\u00fcltek. Ez volt az az id\u0151szak is, amikor a Millennium-h\u00edd \u00e9s a Hristovog Vaskrsenja ortodox templom \u00e9p\u00fclt, \u00e9s ezek lettek a mai Podgorica f\u0151 nevezetess\u00e9gei.<\/p>\"Clock<\/a>

Egy m\u00e1sik p\u00e9lda erre az ac\u00e9l \u00e9s \u00fcveg trendre Podgoric\u00e1ban a George Washington utca, amely egyed\u00fcl\u00e1ll\u00f3 \u00e9lm\u00e9nyt ny\u00fajt, ez\u00e9rt mindenk\u00e9ppen \u00e9rdemes megl\u00e1togatni. Nico \u00e9s \u00e9n nappal ment\u00fcnk oda, \u00e9s mi voltunk az egyetlenek, akik elhaladtak az olyan luxus, de \u00fcres \u00fczletek mellett, mint az Emporio Armani, a Max Mara \u00e9s m\u00e1sok. Az amerikai kar\u00e1csonyi dalokb\u00f3l \u00e1ll\u00f3 lej\u00e1tsz\u00e1si lista sz\u00f3lt a hangsz\u00f3r\u00f3kb\u00f3l, \u00e9s \u00fagy t\u0171nt, hogy pont akkor kezd\u0151d\u00f6tt el, amikor megk\u00f6zel\u00edtett\u00fck azokat az \u00e9p\u00fcleteket. Azt\u00e1n hirtelen, miut\u00e1n n\u00e9h\u00e1ny l\u00e9p\u00e9ssel elt\u00e1volodtunk ett\u0151l az utc\u00e1t\u00f3l, emberek vett\u00e9k k\u00f6r\u00fcl minket, akik lassan s\u00e9t\u00e1ltak a k\u00f6rny\u00e9kbeli irodah\u00e1zak fel\u00e9 vagy a kedvenc \u00e9tterm\u00fckbe.<\/p>

\u00cdgy foglalhatn\u00e1m \u00f6ssze a podgoricai \u00e9lm\u00e9nyt: egy olyan v\u00e1ros, amely egyed\u00fcl\u00e1ll\u00f3 \u00e9s magabiztos a kult\u00far\u00e1j\u00e1ban, ahol a helyi zene, a gasztron\u00f3mia \u00e9s az \u0151szinte bar\u00e1ts\u00e1goss\u00e1g fel\u00fclkerekedik a sz\u00e9les k\u00f6rben elterjedt nyugati popkult\u00far\u00e1n. Ez nem jelenti azt, hogy kult\u00farsokkot kaptunk volna, hiszen sok minden eur\u00f3pai jelleg\u0171 van ezen a helyen. A v\u00e1ros minden r\u00e9sz\u00e9n biztons\u00e1gban \u00e9s k\u00e9nyelmesen \u00e9rezhett\u00fck magunkat. \u00dagy \u00e9rtem, hogy a saj\u00e1t hagyom\u00e1nyaik ir\u00e1nti bizalom \u00e9s tisztelet annyira \u00e1tterjedt a modern val\u00f3s\u00e1gra, hogy annak szil\u00e1rd r\u00e9sz\u00e9v\u00e9 v\u00e1lt. Ezek a hagyom\u00e1nyok nem csup\u00e1n t\u00f6rt\u00e9nelmi jelleg\u0171ek, mint sok nyugati orsz\u00e1gban; \u00e9lnek \u00e9s \u00faj form\u00e1kba fejl\u0151dnek, alkalmazkodva a k\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00f6tt\u00fck l\u00e9v\u0151 modern vil\u00e1ghoz.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Egy olyan hely, amely nem pr\u00f3b\u00e1l m\u00e1snak l\u00e1tszani \u2013 p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul egy \u201emen\u0151 nyugati nagyv\u00e1rosnak\u201d \u2013, csak az\u00e9rt, hogy turist\u00e1kat vonzzon. Olyan, amilyen: egy kicsi, hangulatos f\u0151v\u00e1ros, bar\u00e1ts\u00e1gos \u00e9s sz\u00edv\u00e9lyes lak\u00f3kkal, mert \u0151k eleve ilyenek, \u00e9s nem az\u00e9rt, mert te idegen vagy. \u00c9s a \u201eturisztikai\u201d l\u00e1tv\u00e1nyoss\u00e1gok nem a legjobbak, amit Podgorica k\u00edn\u00e1l. Van ebben a v\u00e1rosban […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":79401,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15893,15900,15832],"tags":[15908,15912],"class_list":["post-90921","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-montenegro-hu","category-podgorica-hu","category-utikonyvek","tag-balkan-hu","tag-napos"],"yoast_head":"\nPodgorica \u2013 Montenegr\u00f3 kult\u00far\u00e1j\u00e1nak hangulata a modern vil\u00e1gban<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u00cdgy foglalhatn\u00e1m \u00f6ssze a podgoricai \u00e9lm\u00e9nyt. 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