{"id":90658,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-hu\/ciprus-nikoszia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T01:32:21","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T01:32:21","slug":"nicosia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/hu\/travelnicosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nicosia"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"90658\" class=\"elementor elementor-90658 elementor-3260\" data-elementor-post-type=\"post\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section data-particle_enable=\"false\" data-particle-mobile-disabled=\"false\" class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-473a179c elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"473a179c\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-53087a89\" data-id=\"53087a89\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-212e41bb elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"212e41bb\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>Neh\u00e9z Ciprusr\u00f3l \u00edrni an\u00e9lk\u00fcl, hogy ez polariz\u00e1lt \u00e9rzelmeket vagy reakci\u00f3kat v\u00e1ltana ki sok eur\u00f3pai, k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6sen a ciprusiak k\u00f6r\u00e9ben. A f\u0151v\u00e1ros, Nicosia m\u00e9g ma is a g\u00f6r\u00f6g \u00e9s a t\u00f6r\u00f6k ciprusiak k\u00f6z\u00f6tt oszlik meg, \u00e9s nem \u00fagy t\u0171nik, hogy ez a k\u00e9t f\u00e9l a k\u00f6zelj\u00f6v\u0151ben \u00fajraegyes\u00fclhetne. <\/strong><\/p><p><strong>Nico, mint igazi <a href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/travel\/germany\/berlin\/\">berlini<\/a>, leny\u0171g\u00f6zte az a lehet\u0151s\u00e9g, hogy az Eur\u00f3pai Uni\u00f3 v\u00e1rosai is olyan megosztottak lehetnek, mint Berlin volt r\u00e9gen. <\/strong><\/p><p><strong>Ez\u00e9rt Nicosia-nak kiemelt helyet kellett kapnia azon a list\u00e1n, amelyen az \u00f6sszes eur\u00f3pai f\u0151v\u00e1ros szerepel, amelyet meg akartunk l\u00e1togatni \u00e9s lefot\u00f3zni. Felfedezni akartuk a v\u00e1ros t\u00f6rt\u00e9nelm\u00e9t, \u00e9s meg akartuk \u00e9rezni, milyen lehet egy fal \u00e1ltal megosztott helyen \u00e9lni.<\/strong><\/p><h2><strong>Nicosia \u2013 egy megosztott f\u0151v\u00e1ros<\/strong><\/h2><p><a href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Panorama-Nicosia-Cyprus-sunny.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Panorama-Nicosia-Cyprus-sunny-300x150.jpg\" alt=\"Panorama of Nicosia in Cyprus taken from The Shacolas Museum and Observatory.\" width=\"600\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p><p>Majdnem \u00e9jszaka landoltunk a v\u00e1ros d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9n. El\u0151re lefoglaltunk egy apartmant \u00e9s a transzfert a rep\u00fcl\u0151t\u00e9rr\u0151l a v\u00e1rosba. A foglal\u00e1skor megadhattuk, hogy milyen t\u00e9m\u00e1kban szeretn\u00e9nk, ha a sof\u0151r\u00fcnk j\u00e1rtas lenne, p\u00e9ld\u00e1ul f\u0151z\u00e9s, v\u00e1rosn\u00e9z\u00e9s, t\u00f6rt\u00e9nelem stb. \u2013 nem viccelek.<\/p><p>A h\u00f6lgy, aki \u00e9rt\u00fcnk j\u00f6tt, gazdag inform\u00e1ci\u00f3forr\u00e1snak bizonyult, \u00e9s remek els\u0151 idegenvezet\u0151nek a ciprusi kult\u00far\u00e1ban. A v\u00e1rosba vezet\u0151 \u00faton elmes\u00e9lte, mit f\u0151znek, mit esznek a ciprusiak, \u00e9s hogyan pihennek. A t\u00e9ma azonban megv\u00e1ltozott, amikor k\u00f6zelebb \u00e9rt\u00fcnk a v\u00e1roshoz, \u00e9s a szem\u00fcnk el\u0151tt megjelent a dombok egyik\u00e9n f\u00e9nyekb\u0151l kialak\u00edtott t\u00f6r\u00f6k z\u00e1szl\u00f3. A h\u00f6lgyet l\u00e1that\u00f3an kiss\u00e9 zavarta a l\u00e1tv\u00e1ny, \u00e9s elmagyar\u00e1zta, hogy a t\u00f6r\u00f6k\u00f6k az\u00e9rt csin\u00e1lj\u00e1k ezt, hogy ugrats\u00e1k a g\u00f6r\u00f6g ciprusiakat.<\/p><p>\u00dagy \u00e9rezt\u00fck, meg kell k\u00e9rdezn\u00fcnk, milyen \u00e9rz\u00e9s \u00e1tl\u00e9pni a hat\u00e1rt Nicosi\u00e1ban a v\u00e1ros \u00e9szaki r\u00e9sz\u00e9re. Elmondta, hogy ez nem jelent probl\u00e9m\u00e1t, csak az \u00fatlevel\u00fcnkre van sz\u00fcks\u00e9g\u00fcnk. Megk\u00e9rdezt\u00fck, hogy sokan l\u00e9pik-e \u00e1t a hat\u00e1rt, \u00e9s azt v\u00e1laszolta, hogy sok turista teszi ezt. Megk\u00e9rdezt\u00fck, \u0151 milyen gyakran l\u00e9p \u00e1t, \u00e9s azt mondta, hogy szinte soha. Nem sok g\u00f6r\u00f6g ciprusi teszi ezt, vagy \u00e9rzi sz\u00fcks\u00e9g\u00e9t. Ismert\u00fck a ciprusi konfliktus t\u00e9nyeit, de az els\u0151 besz\u00e9lget\u00e9s\u00fcnk egy helyb\u00e9livel r\u00e9v\u00e9n r\u00e1j\u00f6tt\u00fcnk, milyen neh\u00e9z t\u00e9ma ez, hogy a t\u00f6rt\u00e9nelem m\u00e9g mindig zajlik, \u00e9s a sebek m\u00e9g nem gy\u00f3gyultak be teljesen. Ennek ellen\u00e9re elk\u00f6vett\u00fck az els\u0151 hib\u00e1nkat, amikor Nicosia \u00e9szaki r\u00e9sz\u00e9t \u201et\u00f6r\u00f6k r\u00e9sznek\u201d nevezt\u00fck \u2013 hiszen a sziget d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9t tekintik \u201efoglalt r\u00e9sznek\u201d.<\/p><p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p><h2><strong>Nicosia d\u00e9li r\u00e9sze<\/strong><\/h2><p><a href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Liberty-Statue-Nicosia-Cyprus-night.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Liberty-Statue-Nicosia-Cyprus-night-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"The Liberty Statue in Nicosia, Cyprus \u2013 EOKA Fighters releasing Cypriots from British rule.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/><\/a><\/p><p>Nicosia d\u00e9li r\u00e9sze m\u00e1r az els\u0151 est\u00e9t\u0151l megh\u00f3d\u00edtotta a sz\u00edv\u00fcnket. A rep\u00fcl\u0151t\u00e9ren felvett sof\u0151r\u00fcnk inspir\u00e1l\u00e1s\u00e1ra azonnal kedvet kaptunk, hogy kipr\u00f3b\u00e1ljunk n\u00e9h\u00e1ny \u201emeze\u201d-t (kis h\u00fasos vagy veget\u00e1ri\u00e1nus \u00e9teleket, mint sal\u00e1t\u00e1k, s\u00fclt h\u00fas, halloumi sajt). Tal\u00e1ltunk egy kis \u00e9ttermet a f\u0151 Ledra utc\u00e1t\u00f3l kicsit t\u00e1volabb. Tipikus ciprusi taverna volt, ahol este \u00e9l\u0151zene sz\u00f3lt. Nagyon \u00e9lvezt\u00fck az ott t\u00f6lt\u00f6tt id\u0151t. Az elk\u00f6vetkez\u0151 n\u00e9h\u00e1ny napban pedig megism\u00e9telt\u00fck ezt az \u00e9lm\u00e9nyt, \u00e9s felfedezt\u00fcnk k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151 meze-\u00e9ttermeket.<\/p><p><a href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Ledra-Street-Centre-Of-Nicosia-Cyprus-sunny.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Ledra-Street-Centre-Of-Nicosia-Cyprus-sunny-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"Ledra Street in the Centre of Nicosia, the Capital of Cyprus.\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><\/p><p>A k\u00f6vetkez\u0151 k\u00e9t napban Nicosia d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9n s\u00e9t\u00e1ltunk. Meg\u00e1llap\u00edtottuk, hogy egyes utc\u00e1k, k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6sen a t\u00f6rt\u00e9nelmi Ledra utca, nagyon j\u00f3l vannak kialak\u00edtva \u2013 narancss\u00e1rga \u00e9s s\u00e1rga napellenz\u0151k l\u00f3gnak az utc\u00e1k felett, v\u00e9dve a gyalogosokat a ny\u00e1ri h\u00f3napokban biztosan er\u0151s napsug\u00e1rz\u00e1st\u00f3l. \u00c9lvezt\u00fck a s\u00e9t\u00e1t a csillag alak\u00fa velencei falak ment\u00e9n is, amelyeket 1567-ben a Velencei K\u00f6zt\u00e1rsas\u00e1g \u00e9p\u00edtett, hogy megv\u00e9dje a v\u00e1rost az Oszm\u00e1n Birodalomt\u00f3l (a v\u00e1ros 1570-ben, 40 napos ostrom ut\u00e1n esett el). \u00c9rdekes volt olvasni, hogy miut\u00e1n a szigetet az Oszm\u00e1n Birodalom megh\u00f3d\u00edtotta, sok t\u00f6r\u00f6k k\u00f6lt\u00f6z\u00f6tt a sziget \u00e9szaki r\u00e9sz\u00e9re. A g\u00f6r\u00f6g ciprusiak t\u00f6bbnyire a sziget d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9n, az ortodox templomok k\u00f6rny\u00e9k\u00e9n \u00e9ltek. S\u00e9t\u00e1ink sor\u00e1n sok ilyen l\u00e1tnival\u00f3t fedezt\u00fcnk fel.<\/p><p>Ciprus 1878-ban az oszm\u00e1n uralkod\u00f3kt\u00f3l a brit k\u00f6zigazgat\u00e1s al\u00e1 ker\u00fclt. Az\u00f3ta a ciprusiak hevesen tiltakoztak a brit uralom ellen, amely az EOKA harcosoknak k\u00f6sz\u00f6nhet\u0151en v\u00e9get \u00e9rt. E felszabadul\u00e1s eml\u00e9k\u00e9re az \u00f3v\u00e1ros k\u00f6zel\u00e9ben \u00e1ll a \u201eEleftheria-eml\u00e9km\u0171\u201d nev\u0171 Szabads\u00e1g-eml\u00e9km\u0171, amelyt\u0151l libab\u0151r\u00f6s lett\u00fcnk, \u00e9s egy \u00f3r\u00e1n \u00e1t ott \u00e1lltunk. Egyszer\u0171en nem tudtuk levenni a szem\u00fcnket a Szabads\u00e1g, az EOKA harcosok \u00e9s a \u201eb\u00f6rt\u00f6nb\u0151l\u201d kiszabadul\u00f3 ciprusiak kifejez\u0151 p\u00f3zair\u00f3l.<\/p><p>1960-ban Nicosia lett a Ciprusi K\u00f6zt\u00e1rsas\u00e1g f\u0151v\u00e1rosa, de a b\u00e9ke nem tartott sok\u00e1ig. 1963-ban a g\u00f6r\u00f6g ciprusiak alkotm\u00e1nym\u00f3dos\u00edt\u00e1st javasoltak, amelyet a t\u00f6r\u00f6k ciprusiak nem fogadtak el. Ezt k\u00f6vet\u0151en sz\u00e1mos er\u0151szakos incidens t\u00f6rt\u00e9nt, \u00e9s a v\u00e1rost meg kellett osztani. A hat\u00e1rt \u201eZ\u00f6ld vonalnak\u201d nevezt\u00e9k el, az ENSZ egyik tisztvisel\u0151je \u00e1ltal a ciprusi t\u00e9rk\u00e9pre rajzolt t\u0171zsz\u00fcneti vonal sz\u00edne miatt. 1974-ben a g\u00f6r\u00f6g cipri\u00f3k megpr\u00f3b\u00e1lt\u00e1k \u00fajraegyes\u00edteni a szigetet, de ezzel csak a t\u00f6r\u00f6k\u00f6k \u00e9szakra t\u00f6rt\u00e9n\u0151 inv\u00e1zi\u00f3j\u00e1t id\u00e9zt\u00e9k el\u0151. Egy \u00e9vvel k\u00e9s\u0151bb a t\u00f6r\u00f6k cipri\u00f3k kiki\u00e1ltott\u00e1k a Ciprusi T\u00f6r\u00f6k Sz\u00f6vets\u00e9gi \u00c1llamot.<\/p><p><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p><h2><strong>S\u00e9ta a \u201eZ\u00f6ld vonal\u201d ment\u00e9n \u00e9s \u00e1t \u00c9szak-Ciprusra<\/strong><\/h2><p><a href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Selimiye-Mosque-Nicosia-Cyprus-interior.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Selimiye-Mosque-Nicosia-Cyprus-interior-300x186.jpg\" alt=\"A photo of interior of Selimiye Mosque in Nicosia; Cyprus\" width=\"500\" height=\"309\" \/><\/a><\/p><p>Amikor Nicosia d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9n s\u00e9t\u00e1ltunk, gyakran l\u00e1ttuk a \u201eZ\u00f6ld vonalat\u201d. \u00c9s minden alkalommal borzong\u00e1s futott v\u00e9gig a h\u00e1tunkon. A hat\u00e1r a v\u00e1ros k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151 r\u00e9szein nem ugyan\u00fagy n\u00e9z ki. N\u00e9ha egy t\u00f6r\u00e9keny, apr\u00f3, s\u00e1rga vir\u00e1gokkal teli r\u00e9ten halad \u00e1t, amelyet akad\u00e1lyok vesznek k\u00f6r\u00fcl. N\u00e9ha az \u00e9p\u00fcletek ment\u00e9n h\u00faz\u00f3dik a hat\u00e1r, amelyek m\u00e1ra m\u00e1r romokk\u00e1 v\u00e1ltak. Egyszer m\u00e9g egy templomot is l\u00e1ttunk, amelynek h\u00e1ts\u00f3 ajtaja \u00e9pp az \u00e9szaki hat\u00e1rra n\u00e9zett.<\/p><p>Gondolhatn\u00e1nk, hogy ha \u00e1tl\u00e9pj\u00fck a hat\u00e1rt \u201eLefko\u015fa\u201d-ba (ahogy a t\u00f6r\u00f6k\u00f6k nevezik f\u0151v\u00e1rosukat), az teljesen m\u00e1s lesz, mint Nicosia d\u00e9li r\u00e9sze. De nem \u00edgy van. Az emberek m\u00e1s nyelvet besz\u00e9lnek, t\u00f6bb mecset van, mint ortodox templom, de az \u00e9let ugyan\u00fagy zajlik, mint d\u00e9len. Egy parkban, k\u00f6zvetlen\u00fcl a hat\u00e1ron, gyerekek j\u00e1tszottak \u00e9s nevettek, mintha \u00e9szre sem venn\u00e9k a ker\u00edt\u00e9seket. Nico \u00e9s \u00e9n nem eml\u00e9ksz\u00fcnk sok olyan hat\u00e1rra, amely ennyire j\u00f3l v\u00e9dett lenne, mondhatni \u201ea schengeni gyerekek\u201d voltunk.<\/p><p>Megl\u00e1togattunk egy piacteret, amely tele volt emberekkel \u00e9s turist\u00e1kkal. Ott 20 eur\u00f3\u00e9rt lehetett venni egy t\u00e1ska Adidas vagy Michael Kors term\u00e9ket, de ett\u0151l eltekintve semmi szokatlan nem volt ezen a helyen. \u00c9lvezt\u00fck a hossz\u00fa s\u00e9t\u00e1t is a k\u00f6rny\u00e9ken \u00e9s a B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Nagy Fogad\u00f3) karav\u00e1nszer\u00e1jban, amelyet 1572-ben \u00e9p\u00edtettek utaz\u00f3k sz\u00e1m\u00e1ra, de ma k\u00e9zm\u0171ves term\u00e9keket \u00e1rus\u00edt\u00f3 boltok, aj\u00e1nd\u00e9k\u00fczletek \u00e9s \u00e9ttermek tal\u00e1lhat\u00f3k benne. Ami sz\u00e1munkra elb\u0171v\u00f6l\u0151 volt, \u00e9s ami karaktert ad ennek a helynek, azok a sz\u00ednes h\u00edmz\u00e9sek voltak, amelyek a t\u00e9r belsej\u00e9ben a korl\u00e1tokat \u00e9s a padokat d\u00edsz\u00edtik. Ezeket g\u00f6r\u00f6g \u00e9s ciprusi n\u0151k k\u00e9sz\u00edtett\u00e9k, hogy kifejezz\u00e9k a kapcsolatot Nicosia \u00e9szaki \u00e9s d\u00e9li r\u00e9sz\u00e9n \u00e9l\u0151 n\u0151k k\u00f6z\u00f6tt.<\/p><p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/DSC_6118-2000.jpg\" alt=\"B\u00fcy\u00fck Han in the North of Nicosia on Cyprus was originally a hotel \" width=\"839\" height=\"560\" \/><\/p><p>Nicosi\u00e1ban egyfajta melank\u00f3lia egy pillanatra sem hagyott minket nyugodni, de tudtuk, mi a c\u00e9lunk. Az volt, hogy fot\u00f3inkon megmutassuk a k\u00f6z\u00f6s fal\u00fa v\u00e1ros mindk\u00e9t r\u00e9sz\u00e9nek sz\u00e9ps\u00e9g\u00e9t, a politikai helyzet ellen\u00e9re. A d\u00e9lut\u00e1ni \u00e9s a reggeli naps\u00fct\u00e9s ugyanolyan meleg, f\u00fcggetlen\u00fcl att\u00f3l, hogy a d\u00e9li Ledra utc\u00e1r\u00f3l vagy az \u00e9szaki B\u00fcy\u00fck Hanr\u00f3l van sz\u00f3. \u00dagy v\u00e9lj\u00fck, mindk\u00e9t helyet \u00e9rdemes a legjobb oldal\u00e1r\u00f3l bemutatni, \u00e9s mindk\u00e9t kult\u00far\u00e1t tisztelni kell. Lehet, hogy k\u00fcl\u00f6nb\u00f6z\u0151ek, lehet, hogy m\u00e9g mindig van n\u00e9mi szomor\u00fas\u00e1g \u00e9s harag, de az \u00e9let megy tov\u00e1bb \u2013 a gyerekek j\u00e1tszanak \u00e9s mosolyognak, az emberek dolgozni mennek, a turist\u00e1k pedig csak s\u00e9t\u00e1lgatnak. A Z\u00f6ld Vonalr\u00f3l nem enged\u00e9lyezt\u00e9k, hogy fot\u00f3zzunk \u2013 de tal\u00e1n \u00edgy is jobb volt.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Neh\u00e9z Ciprusr\u00f3l \u00edrni an\u00e9lk\u00fcl, hogy ez polariz\u00e1lt \u00e9rzelmeket vagy reakci\u00f3kat v\u00e1ltana ki sok eur\u00f3pai, k\u00fcl\u00f6n\u00f6sen a ciprusiak k\u00f6r\u00e9ben. A f\u0151v\u00e1ros, Nicosia m\u00e9g ma is a g\u00f6r\u00f6g \u00e9s a t\u00f6r\u00f6k ciprusiak k\u00f6z\u00f6tt oszlik meg, \u00e9s nem \u00fagy t\u0171nik, hogy ez a k\u00e9t f\u00e9l a k\u00f6zelj\u00f6v\u0151ben \u00fajraegyes\u00fclhetne. Nico, mint igazi berlini, leny\u0171g\u00f6zte az a lehet\u0151s\u00e9g, hogy az [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":79449,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15821,15824,15832],"tags":[15827,15826,15829,15825],"class_list":["post-90658","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ciprus","category-nicosia-hu","category-utikonyvek","tag-fal","tag-hotel-hu","tag-meze-hu","tag-utca"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v28.8 (Yoast SEO v28.8) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Nicosia \u2013 a fal \u00e1ltal kett\u00e9szak\u00edtott ciprusi v\u00e1ros<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, aki igazi berlini, leny\u0171g\u00f6zte az a gondolat, hogy egy eur\u00f3pai v\u00e1ros is megoszthat\u00f3 legyen, ahogyan Berlin egykor. 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