{"id":91328,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-et\/kupros-nikoosia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-26T21:59:54","modified_gmt":"2026-04-26T21:59:54","slug":"nikosia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/et\/travelnikosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nikosia"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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K\u00fcprosest on raske kirjutada, ilma et see tekitaks paljudes eurooplastes, eriti k\u00fcproslastes, vastandlikke tundeid v\u00f5i reaktsioone. Pealinn Nikosia jaguneb t\u00e4nap\u00e4evalgi kreeka- ja t\u00fcrgi-k\u00fcproslaste vahel ning ei paista, et need kaks poolt suudaksid l\u00e4hiajal taas \u00fchineda. <\/strong><\/p>

Nico, kes on s\u00fcndinud berliinlane<\/a>, oli lummatud v\u00f5imalusest, et Euroopa Liidu linnad v\u00f5ivad olla sama jagatud kui Berliin kunagi oli. <\/strong><\/p>

Seet\u00f5ttu pidi Nikosia olema meie Euroopa pealinnade k\u00fclastamise ja pildistamise nimekirjas esikohal. Tahtsime avastada linna ajalugu ja saada aimu, milline on elu kohas, mida jagab m\u00fc\u00fcr.<\/strong><\/p>

Nikosia \u2013 jagatud pealinn<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

Maandusime linna l\u00f5unaosas peaaegu \u00f6\u00f6sel. Broneerisime eelnevalt korteri ja ka transpordi lennujaamast linna. Broneerimisel saime m\u00e4rkida teemad, milles soovisime, et meie juht oleks spetsialiseerunud, nagu n\u00e4iteks kokandus, vaatamisv\u00e4\u00e4rsused, ajalugu jne \u2013 t\u00f5siselt.<\/p>

Naine, kes meid peale v\u00f5ttis, osutus rikkalikuks teabeallikaks ja heaks esimeseks giidiks K\u00fcprose kultuuri tutvustamisel. Teel linna selgitas ta, mida k\u00fcproslased kokkavad, s\u00f6\u00f6vad ja kuidas nad l\u00f5\u00f5gastuvad. Teema muutus aga, kui j\u00f5udsime linnale l\u00e4hemale ja meie silme ette avanes vaade \u00fchele m\u00e4ele, kus valgustusest oli moodustatud T\u00fcrgi lipp. Naine tundus sellest vaatepildist veidi h\u00e4iritud olevat ja selgitas, et t\u00fcrklased teevad seda kreeka-k\u00fcproslaste kiusamiseks.<\/p>

Tundsime, et peame k\u00fcsima, milline on tunne \u00fcletada Nikosia piiri linna p\u00f5hjaossa. Ta selgitas, et see pole probleem, meil on vaja vaid passe. K\u00fcsisime, kas paljud inimesed \u00fcletavad piiri, ja ta vastas, et paljud turistid teevad seda. K\u00fcsisime, kui tihti ta ise piiri \u00fcletab, ja ta \u00fctles, et peaaegu kunagi. Paljud kreeka-k\u00fcproslased ei tee seda ega tunne selleks vajadust. Me teadsime fakte K\u00fcprose konflikti kohta, kuid t\u00e4nu meie esimesele vestlusele kohaliku elanikuga avastasime, kui keeruline see teema on, et ajalugu on ikka veel k\u00e4imas ja haavad pole veel t\u00e4ielikult paranenud. Sellest teadmisest hoolimata tegime oma esimese vea, nimetades Nikosia p\u00f5hjaosa \u201eT\u00fcrgi osaks\u201d \u2013 sest saare l\u00f5unaosa peetakse \u201eokupeeritud osaks\u201d.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Nikosia l\u00f5unaosa<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Nikosia l\u00f5unaosa v\u00f5itis meie s\u00fcdamed juba esimesest \u00f5htust alates. Lennujaamast meid peale v\u00f5tnud juhi innustamisel tundsime tungivat soovi kohe proovida m\u00f5nda \u201eMeze't\u201c (v\u00e4ikesed liha- v\u00f5i taimetoidud, nagu salatid, r\u00f6stitud liha, halloumi juust). Leidsime v\u00e4ikese restorani veidi v\u00e4ljaspool peamist Ledra t\u00e4navat. See oli t\u00fc\u00fcpiline K\u00fcprose tavern, kus \u00f5htuti m\u00e4ngiti elavat muusikat. Me nautisime seal veedetud aega v\u00e4ga. Ja j\u00e4rgnevatel p\u00e4evadel kordasime seda kogemust, avastades erinevaid meze-kohti.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

J\u00e4rgmise kahe p\u00e4eva jooksul uitasime Nikosia l\u00f5unaosas ringi. Leidsime, et m\u00f5ned t\u00e4navad, eriti ajalooline Ledra t\u00e4nav, olid nutikalt kujundatud \u2013 t\u00e4navate kohal rippusid oran\u017eid ja kollased purjed, mis kaitsesid jalak\u00e4ijaid p\u00e4ikese eest, mis suvekuudel kindlasti tugev on. Meile meeldis ka jalutada t\u00e4hekujuliste Veneetsia m\u00fc\u00fcride \u00e4\u00e4res, mille ehitas 1567. aastal Veneetsia Vabariik, et kaitsta linna Ottomani impeeriumi eest (linn langes 1570. aastal p\u00e4rast 40-p\u00e4evast piiramist). Oli huvitav lugeda, et p\u00e4rast saare vallutamist Ottomani impeeriumi poolt kolisid paljud t\u00fcrklased saare p\u00f5hjaossa. K\u00fcprose kreeklased elasid peamiselt saare l\u00f5unaosas, \u00f5igeusu kirikute \u00fcmbruses. Me avastasime paljud neist vaatamisv\u00e4\u00e4rsustest oma jalutusk\u00e4ikude ajal.<\/p>

K\u00fcpros l\u00e4ks 1878. aastal Ottomani valitsejatelt \u00fcle Briti haldusele. Sellest ajast alates toimusid k\u00fcproslaste poolt tugevad protestid Briti valitsuse vastu, mis l\u00f5ppesid t\u00e4nu EOKA v\u00f5itlejatele. Selle vabanemise m\u00e4lestuseks seisab vanalinna l\u00e4hedal Vabaduse monument, mida nimetatakse \u201eEleftheria monumentiks\u201c ja mis pani meid v\u00e4risema ning seal tund aega seisma. Me lihtsalt ei suutnud l\u00f5petada vahtimist Vabaduse, EOKA v\u00f5itlejate ja \u201evanglast\u201c vabastatud k\u00fcproslaste v\u00e4ljendusrikastele poosidele.<\/p>

1960. aastal sai Nikosia K\u00fcprose Vabariigi pealinnaks, kuid rahu ei kestnud kaua. 1963. aastal tegid kreeka-k\u00fcproslased ettepaneku p\u00f5hiseaduse muutmiseks, mida t\u00fcrgi-k\u00fcproslased ei aktsepteerinud. Selle j\u00e4rel toimus palju v\u00e4givaldseid intsidente ja linn tuli jagada. Piir sai nimeks \u201eroheline joon\u201d selle pliiatsi v\u00e4rvi j\u00e4rgi, millega \u00fcks \u00dcRO ametnik joonistas K\u00fcprose kaardile relvarahu joone. 1974. aastal p\u00fc\u00fcdsid K\u00fcprose kreeklased saart taas\u00fchendada, kuid p\u00f5hjustasid selle asemel T\u00fcrgi sissetungi p\u00f5hjaossa. Aasta hiljem kuulutasid K\u00fcprose t\u00fcrklased oma riigiks T\u00fcrgi K\u00fcprose F\u00f6deraalriigi.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

K\u00f5nni m\u00f6\u00f6da ja \u00fcle \u201erohelise joone\u201d P\u00f5hja-K\u00fcprosele<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

Kui me jalutasime Nikosia l\u00f5unaosas ringi, n\u00e4gime \u201erohelist joont\u201c sageli. Ja iga kord jooksid meil selja m\u00f6\u00f6da k\u00fclmav\u00e4rinad. Piir ei n\u00e4e linna eri osades \u00fchtmoodi v\u00e4lja. M\u00f5nikord on see abatisega \u00fcmbritsetud niit, mis on t\u00e4is \u00f5rnu, v\u00e4ikeseid, kollaseid lilli. M\u00f5nikord kulgeb piir m\u00f6\u00f6da hooneid, mis on n\u00fc\u00fcdseks varemed. \u00dckskord n\u00e4gime isegi kirikut, mille tagaukse juures piirnes P\u00f5hja-K\u00fcpros.<\/p>

V\u00f5ib arvata, et kui \u00fcletada piiri \u201eLefko\u015fasse\u201d (nagu t\u00fcrklased oma pealinna kutsuvad), on seal t\u00e4iesti teistsugune olukord kui Nikosia l\u00f5unaosas. Aga see pole nii. Inimesed r\u00e4\u00e4givad teist keelt, mo\u0161eesid on rohkem kui \u00f5igeusu kirikuid, kuid elu kulgeb samamoodi nagu l\u00f5unas. \u00dches pargis otse piiri \u00e4\u00e4res m\u00e4ngisid ja naersid lapsed, n\u00e4idates v\u00e4lja, nagu ei m\u00e4rkaks nad aedu. Nico ja mina ei m\u00e4leta palju piire, mis oleksid nii h\u00e4sti kaitstud, v\u00f5iks \u00f6elda, et oleme \u201eSchengeni lapsed\u201d.<\/p>

K\u00fclastasime turuplatsi, mis oli t\u00e4is inimesi ja turiste. Sealt sai osta koti Adidas v\u00f5i Michael Kors kaupa vaid 20 euro eest, kuid peale selle polnud selles kohas midagi ebatavalist. Me nautisime ka pikka jalutusk\u00e4iku \u00fcmbruskonnas ja karavansarais B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Suur K\u00f5rts), mis ehitati 1572. aastal reisijate majutuspaigaks, kuid t\u00e4nap\u00e4eval on see koht k\u00e4sit\u00f6\u00f6toodete ja suveniiripoodide ning restoranide jaoks. Meile tundus v\u00f5luv ja sellele kohale iseloomu andev v\u00e4rvikas tikand, mis \u00fcmbritseb sisehoovi piirdeid ja pinke. Need on valmistanud Kreeka ja K\u00fcprose naised, et n\u00e4idata Nikosia p\u00f5hja- ja l\u00f5unaosa naiste vahelist sidet.
\n\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

Teatud melanhoolia ei j\u00e4tnud meid Nikosias hetkekski, kuid me teadsime, mis oli meie eesm\u00e4rk. See oli n\u00e4idata oma fotodel kahe poole vahelise m\u00fc\u00fcriga linna m\u00f5lema osa ilu, hoolimata poliitilisest olukorrast. P\u00e4ikesepaiste p\u00e4rastl\u00f5unal ja hommikul on sama soe, olenemata sellest, kas tegemist on Ledra t\u00e4navaga l\u00f5unas v\u00f5i B\u00fcy\u00fck Haniga p\u00f5hjas. Usume, et m\u00f5lemad kohad v\u00e4\u00e4rivad n\u00e4itamist oma parimast k\u00fcljest ja m\u00f5lemat kultuuri tuleb austada. Need v\u00f5ivad olla erinevad, v\u00f5ib-olla on seal ikka veel kurbust ja viha, kuid elu l\u00e4heb edasi \u2013 lapsed m\u00e4ngivad ja naeravad, inimesed l\u00e4hevad t\u00f6\u00f6le ja turistid lihtsalt jalutavad ringi. Meil ei lubatud rohelist joont pildistada \u2013 aga v\u00f5ib-olla oli see isegi parem.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

K\u00fcprosest on raske kirjutada, ilma et see tekitaks paljudes eurooplastes, eriti k\u00fcproslastes, vastandlikke tundeid v\u00f5i reaktsioone. Pealinn Nikosia jaguneb t\u00e4nap\u00e4evalgi kreeka- ja t\u00fcrgi-k\u00fcproslaste vahel ning ei paista, et need kaks poolt suudaksid l\u00e4hiajal taas \u00fchineda. Nico, kes on s\u00fcndinud berliinlane, oli lummatud v\u00f5imalusest, et Euroopa Liidu linnad v\u00f5ivad olla sama jagatud kui Berliin kunagi oli. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":79447,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16059,16060,15822],"tags":[16062,16064,16063,16061],"class_list":["post-91328","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kupros","category-nikosia-et","category-reisijuhid","tag-hotell-et","tag-meze-et","tag-seina-et","tag-tanav"],"yoast_head":"\nNikosia \u2013 K\u00fcprose linn, mida jagab m\u00fc\u00fcr<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, kes on s\u00fcndinud ja kasvanud Berliinis, oli lummatud sellest, et Euroopas v\u00f5ib olla linn, mis on jagatud nii, nagu Berliin kunagi oli. Seet\u00f5ttu pidi Nikosia olema meie k\u00fclastatavate kohtade nimekirjas \u00fcsna eesotsas. 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