{"id":91034,"date":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","date_gmt":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-da\/montenegro-podgorica\/"},"modified":"2026-04-25T14:40:57","modified_gmt":"2026-04-25T14:40:57","slug":"podgorica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/da\/travelpodgorica\/","title":{"rendered":"Podgorica"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Et sted, der ikke foregiver at v\u00e6re noget, man ikke er \u2013 for eksempel en \u00bbcool vestlig storby\u00ab \u2013 for at tiltr\u00e6kke turister. Det er, som det er \u2013 en lille, hyggelig hovedstad med venlige og hjertelige indbyggere, fordi det er s\u00e5dan, de er, og ikke fordi man er en udefra. <\/strong><\/p>

Og de s\u00e5kaldte \u00bbturiststeder\u00ab er ikke det bedste, Podgorica har at byde p\u00e5. Der er en melankolsk sk\u00f8nhed ved dette sted, som man kun kan opdage ved at vandre stille gennem gaderne, uden at blive forstyrret af larmende grupper af folk, der skynder sig forbi.<\/strong><\/p>

Podgorica (\u201eunder en lille bakke\u201c) <\/strong><\/h2>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Da vi besluttede at fejre nyt\u00e5rsaften 2017 sammen med vores venner i Podgorica, hovedstaden i Montenegro<\/a>, m\u00e5 jeg indr\u00f8mme, at jeg var lidt skeptisk. Min f\u00f8rste tanke var: "N\u00e5r man tager byens st\u00f8rrelse (220.000 indbyggere) i betragtning, er vi f\u00e6rdige med sightseeing p\u00e5 bare et par timer". Den anden tanke (heldigvis) var mere optimistisk: "men i s\u00e5 fald f\u00e5r vi mere tid til at smage p\u00e5 montenegrinsk vin".<\/p>

Da vi ankom til Podgorica tidligt p\u00e5 eftermiddagen, var det en enorm forandring for os i forhold til vores hjem i Berlin<\/a>. For det f\u00f8rste var det solrigt (det er noget af en sj\u00e6ldenhed at se solskin i Berlin om vinteren). For det andet var der ingen stress i byen. Vi s\u00e5 kun f\u00e5 forbipasserende i de hyggelige gader.<\/p>

De fleste butikker var lukket p\u00e5 det tidspunkt, bortset fra caf\u00e9er og nogle vin- og spiritusforretninger (hvor vi da ogs\u00e5 kiggede forbi for at k\u00f8be nogle lokale drikkevarer). P\u00e5 torvet var man i gang med at opstille en koncertscene til nyt\u00e5rsaften dagen efter. B\u00f8rnene plaskede i vandet fra springvandet, og trods den k\u00f8lige temperatur voksede der gr\u00f8nne palmer op af de betonbelagte gader. Efter det hektiske Berlin virkede disse scener n\u00e6sten som om de udspillede sig i slowmotion for os.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Efter en kort g\u00e5tur fandt vi en caf\u00e9, der s\u00e5 lovende ud. Selvom der ikke var plads nok til en gruppe p\u00e5 7 personer, flyttede tjenerne rundt p\u00e5 bordene, s\u00e5 vi kunne sidde sammen \u2013 et godt f\u00f8rsteh\u00e5ndsindtryk. Det andet gode indtryk var maden \u2013 portionerne var n\u00e6sten umulige at spise op p\u00e5 \u00e9n gang, og alt var til en rimelig pris. Caf\u00e9en var fyldt med folk, og der spillede moderne balkanmusik fra tv'et, der hang over baren.<\/p>

Som vi senere fandt ud af, var denne form for elektronisk musik noget, der var helt unikt for denne region. I n\u00e6sten alle de barer og restauranter, vi kom forbi, var der mindst \u00e9t fjernsyn, hvor man kunne se musikvideoer med smukke, til tider halvn\u00f8gne kvinder, der dansede til rytmerne af moderne elektronisk musik, som nogle gange var blandet med folkemusik.<\/p>

En kombination, der er sv\u00e6r at beskrive, medmindre man selv har h\u00f8rt den. Selvom min indre feminist protesterede i mit hoved (\u201ehvorfor skal kvinderne v\u00e6re n\u00f8gne?\u201c), var der noget charmerende ved de lyde, der fulgte os overalt. Aldrig f\u00f8r havde jeg oplevet en s\u00e5dan mangel p\u00e5 popul\u00e6r international musik og et s\u00e5dant fokus p\u00e5 de lokale bands.<\/p>\"Vladimir<\/a>

Hvis man er fan af balkank\u00f8kkenet og ikke er vegetar, er Podgorica et paradis. De mest almindelige k\u00f8dretter, vi pr\u00f8vede, var \u0106evapi, Pljeskavica (en lokal hamburger) og Ra\u017enji\u0107i, som man kan f\u00e5 i mange restauranter, men ogs\u00e5 som street food. Stort set alt, der indeholdt k\u00f8d, var p\u00e5 menuen. Derudover opdagede vi en anden variant af 'ost p\u00e5 toppen' \u2013 Njegu\u0161ki sir \u2013 ost opbevaret i olie. Disse retter passede rigtig godt til montenegrinsk hvid- og r\u00f8dvin fra Vranac-druen \u2013 en gammel druesort, der er typisk for Makedonien, Serbien og Montenegro, og som hovedsageligt dyrkes i Montenegro, i regionerne omkring Podgorica.<\/p>

Vi havde to dage til at g\u00e5 rundt. Den klare bl\u00e5 himmel gav os mulighed for at se Gorica-bakken, der troner over byen (og som har givet byen sit navn). Man kan selv drage sine egne konklusioner om navnet Montenegro ("sort bjerg"), da hovedstaden faktisk ligger i et fladt omr\u00e5de. Podgorica er omgivet af to floder: Mora\u010da og Ribnica. Den f\u00f8rste str\u00e6kker sig over en dal midt i byen, og det var en behagelig oplevelse at g\u00e5 en tur langs det turkisgr\u00f8nne vand, der stod i kontrast til de hvide sten, der d\u00e6kkede bredderne.<\/p>

Arkitektur<\/h2>\"The<\/a>

Arkitekturen i Podgorica er heller ikke let at beskrive. Den er pr\u00e6get af skiftende regimer. Den \u00e6ldste del af byen er ikke som i andre byer. Det er n\u00e6sten udelukkende et boligomr\u00e5de med gamle huse og smalle gader. Det Osmanniske Riges tid har ogs\u00e5 sat sit pr\u00e6g p\u00e5 dette sted \u2013 vi fandt to mosk\u00e9er og et malerisk klokket\u00e5rn der. Det var en helt s\u00e6rlig oplevelse for os at sammenligne det med det sted, vi boede i Nova Varo\u0161 ("nybyen"), hvor gaderne var lige s\u00e5 brede som i andre europ\u00e6iske byer.<\/p>

Under 2. verdenskrig blev Podgorica n\u00e6sten j\u00e6vnet med jorden og genopbygget som en jugoslavisk by i den kommunistiske blok (byen hed dengang \u00bbTitograd\u00ab \u2013 opkaldt efter Josip Broz Tito, Jugoslaviens pr\u00e6sident). Disse boligblokke var typiske for den tid og var mange steder malet i klare farver, hvilket gav byen et mere livligt udseende. Fra 90'erne og frem begyndte den urbane revolution, og de nye bygninger af st\u00e5l og glas blev rejst. Dette var ogs\u00e5 en tid, hvor Millennium Bridge og den ortodokse kirke Hristovog Vaskrsenja blev bygget og blev de vigtigste vartegn i det moderne Podgorica.<\/p>\"Clock<\/a>

Et andet eksempel p\u00e5 denne trend med st\u00e5l og glas i Podgorica er George Washington Street, som er et must for en unik oplevelse. Nico og jeg tog derhen om dagen og var de eneste, der gik forbi de luksuri\u00f8se, men tomme butikker som Emporio Armani, Max Mara og andre. En playliste med amerikanske julesange spillede fra h\u00f8jttalerne og syntes at starte i det \u00f8jeblik, vi n\u00e6rmede os disse bygninger. S\u00e5, pludselig, efter et par skridt v\u00e6k fra denne gade, var vi omgivet af mennesker, der gik langsomt hen mod kontorbygninger i n\u00e6rheden eller til en yndlingsrestaurant.<\/p>

S\u00e5dan kunne jeg sammenfatte oplevelsen af Podgorica: en by, der er unik og stolt af sin kultur, hvor lokal musik, mad og \u00e6gte g\u00e6stfrihed trumfer den udbredte vestlige popkultur. Det betyder ikke, at vi oplevede et kulturchok; der er masser af europ\u00e6iske elementer her. Man kunne ogs\u00e5 f\u00f8le sig tryg og godt tilpas i alle dele af byen. Det, jeg mener, er, at tilliden til og v\u00e6rds\u00e6ttelsen af deres egne traditioner har spredt sig s\u00e5 meget ind i den moderne virkelighed, at det er blevet en fast del af den. Disse traditioner er ikke kun historiske, som i mange vestlige lande; de lever og udvikler sig til nye former, der tilpasser sig den moderne verden omkring dem.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Et sted, der ikke foregiver at v\u00e6re noget, man ikke er \u2013 for eksempel en \u00bbcool vestlig storby\u00ab \u2013 for at tiltr\u00e6kke turister. Det er, som det er \u2013 en lille, hyggelig hovedstad med venlige og hjertelige indbyggere, fordi det er s\u00e5dan, de er, og ikke fordi man er en udefra. Og de s\u00e5kaldte \u00bbturiststeder\u00ab […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":68674,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15968,15970,15798],"tags":[15972,15973],"class_list":["post-91034","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-montenegro-da","category-podgorica-da","category-rejseguider","tag-balkan-da","tag-solrig"],"yoast_head":"\nPodgorica \u2013 en smagspr\u00f8ve p\u00e5 Montenegros kultur i den moderne verden<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"S\u00e5dan vil jeg sammenfatte oplevelsen af Podgorica. 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