{"id":121208,"date":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","date_gmt":"2018-01-18T16:04:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-cs\/montenegro-podgorica\/"},"modified":"2026-04-25T20:12:50","modified_gmt":"2026-04-25T20:12:50","slug":"podgorica","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/cs\/travel\/montenegro-podgorica\/","title":{"rendered":"Podgorica"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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M\u00edsto, kter\u00e9 se nesna\u017e\u00ed p\u0159edst\u00edrat, \u017ee je n\u011b\u010d\u00edm, \u010d\u00edm nen\u00ed \u2013 t\u0159eba \u201ecool z\u00e1padn\u00ed metropol\u00ed\u201c \u2013, jen aby p\u0159il\u00e1kalo turisty. Je takov\u00e9, jak\u00e9 je \u2013 mal\u00e9, \u00fatuln\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto s p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdmi a srde\u010dn\u00fdmi obyvateli, proto\u017ee takov\u00ed prost\u011b jsou, a ne proto, \u017ee jste cizinec. <\/strong><\/p>

A \u201eturistick\u00e1\u201c m\u00edsta nejsou to nejlep\u0161\u00ed, co Podgorica m\u016f\u017ee nab\u00eddnout. V tomto m\u00edst\u011b se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 jist\u00e1 melancholick\u00e1 kr\u00e1sa, kterou m\u016f\u017eete objevit jen tehdy, kdy\u017e se ti\u0161e proch\u00e1z\u00edte ulicemi a neru\u0161\u00ed v\u00e1s hlu\u010dn\u00e9 skupiny sp\u011bchaj\u00edc\u00edch lid\u00ed.<\/strong><\/p>

Podgorica (\u201epod mal\u00fdm kopcem\u201c) <\/strong><\/h2>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Kdy\u017e jsme se rozhodli oslavit Silvestra 2017 s na\u0161imi p\u0159\u00e1teli v Podgorici, hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b \u010cern\u00e9 Hory, mus\u00edm p\u0159iznat, \u017ee jsem byl trochu skeptick\u00fd. Moje prvn\u00ed my\u0161lenka byla: \u201eVzhledem k velikosti m\u011bsta (220 tis\u00edc obyvatel) budeme s prohl\u00eddkou hotovi za p\u00e1r hodin\u201c. Druh\u00e1 my\u0161lenka (na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed) byla optimisti\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed: \u201eale v tom p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b budeme m\u00edt v\u00edce \u010dasu na ochutn\u00e1vku \u010dernohorsk\u00e9ho v\u00edna\u201c.<\/p>

Kdy\u017e jsme brzy odpoledne dorazili do Podgorice, byl to pro n\u00e1s oproti na\u0161emu domovu v Berl\u00edn\u011b<\/a> obrovsk\u00fd rozd\u00edl. Zaprv\u00e9 sv\u00edtilo slunce (v zim\u011b je v Berl\u00edn\u011b slune\u010dn\u00ed svit sp\u00ed\u0161e v\u00fdjimkou). Zadruh\u00e9 ve m\u011bst\u011b nepanoval \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd shon. V \u00fatuln\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch jsme potk\u00e1vali jen m\u00e1lo kolemjdouc\u00edch.<\/p>

V\u011bt\u0161ina obchod\u016f byla v tu dobu zav\u0159en\u00e1, s v\u00fdjimkou kav\u00e1ren a n\u011bkolika obchod\u016f s alkoholem (kam jsme se zastavili, abychom si koupili n\u011bjak\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed n\u00e1poje). Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed se stav\u011blo koncertn\u00ed p\u00f3dium pro silvestrovskou oslavu, kter\u00e1 se m\u011bla konat n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed den. D\u011bti si hr\u00e1ly s vodou tryskaj\u00edc\u00ed z font\u00e1ny a navzdory chladn\u00e9mu po\u010das\u00ed z betonov\u00fdch ulic vyr\u016fstaly zelen\u00e9 palmy. Po ru\u0161n\u00e9m Berl\u00edn\u011b se n\u00e1m tyto sc\u00e9ny zd\u00e1ly t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 jako ve zpomalen\u00e9m filmu.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>

Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 proch\u00e1zce jsme narazili na kav\u00e1rnu, kter\u00e1 vypadala slibn\u011b. I kdy\u017e tam nebylo dost m\u00edsta pro skupinu sedmi lid\u00ed, \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edci posunuli stoly, abychom mohli sed\u011bt v\u0161ichni pohromad\u011b \u2013 dobr\u00fd prvn\u00ed dojem. Druh\u00fdm dobr\u00fdm dojmem bylo j\u00eddlo \u2013 porce byly tak velk\u00e9, \u017ee se nedaly sn\u00edst na jeden z\u00e1tah, a v\u0161echno bylo za rozumnou cenu. Kav\u00e1rna byla pln\u00e1 a z televize vis\u00edc\u00ed nad barem hr\u00e1la modern\u00ed balk\u00e1nsk\u00e1 hudba.<\/p>

Jak jsme pozd\u011bji zjistili, tento druh elektronick\u00e9 hudby byl pro tento region typick\u00fd. T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v ka\u017ed\u00e9m baru a restauraci, kam jsme zav\u00edtali, byla alespo\u0148 jedna televize, na kter\u00e9 se daly sledovat videoklipy s kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi, n\u011bkdy polonah\u00fdmi \u017eenami, kter\u00e9 tan\u010dily v rytmu modern\u00ed elektronick\u00e9 hudby, n\u011bkdy sm\u00edchan\u00e9 s lidov\u00fdmi melodiemi.<\/p>

Kombinace, kterou je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 popsat, pokud jste ji sami nesly\u0161eli. P\u0159esto\u017ee se v m\u00e9 hlav\u011b oz\u00fdvaly feministick\u00e9 protesty (\u201epro\u010d mus\u00ed b\u00fdt \u017eeny nah\u00e9?\u201c), v t\u011bch zvuc\u00edch, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1s prov\u00e1zely na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku, bylo n\u011bco okouzluj\u00edc\u00edho. Nikde jinde jsem dosud neza\u017eila takovou absenci popul\u00e1rn\u00ed mezin\u00e1rodn\u00ed hudby a takov\u00e9 zam\u011b\u0159en\u00ed na m\u00edstn\u00ed kapely.<\/p>\"Vladimir<\/a>

Pokud jste fanou\u0161kem balk\u00e1nsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b a nejste vegetari\u00e1n, je Podgorica r\u00e1jem. Nejb\u011b\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed masov\u00e9 pokrmy, kter\u00e9 jsme ochutnali, byly \u0106evapi, Pljeskavica (m\u00edstn\u00ed hamburger) a Ra\u017enji\u0107i, kter\u00e9 si m\u016f\u017eete d\u00e1t v mnoha restaurac\u00edch, ale tak\u00e9 jako pouli\u010dn\u00ed j\u00eddlo. V podstat\u011b v\u0161echno, co obsahovalo maso, bylo na j\u00eddeln\u00edm l\u00edstku. Krom\u011b toho jsme objevili dal\u0161\u00ed variantu \u201es\u00fdru naho\u0159e\u201c \u2013 Njegu\u0161ki sir \u2013 s\u00fdr uchov\u00e1van\u00fd v oleji. K t\u011bmto pokrm\u016fm se velmi dob\u0159e hodilo \u010dernohorsk\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 a \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edno z odr\u016fdy Vranac \u2013 starobyl\u00e9 odr\u016fdy typick\u00e9 pro Makedonii, Srbsko a \u010cernou Horu, kter\u00e1 se p\u011bstuje p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b v \u010cern\u00e9 Ho\u0159e, v oblastech kolem Podgorice.<\/p>

M\u011bli jsme dva dny na prohl\u00eddku m\u011bsta. D\u00edky jasn\u00e9 modr\u00e9 obloze jsme mohli spat\u0159it kopec Gorica ty\u010d\u00edc\u00ed se nad m\u011bstem (po kter\u00e9m m\u011bsto dostalo sv\u00e9 jm\u00e9no). O n\u00e1zvu \u010cern\u00e9 Hory (\u201e\u010dern\u00e1 hora<\/a>\u201c) si m\u016f\u017eete ud\u011blat vlastn\u00ed z\u00e1v\u011br, proto\u017ee hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto le\u017e\u00ed ve skute\u010dnosti v rovinat\u00e9 oblasti. Podgorica je obklopena dv\u011bma \u0159ekami: Mora\u010dou a Ribnicou. Prvn\u00ed z nich se t\u00e1hne \u00fadol\u00edm uprost\u0159ed m\u011bsta a byla to p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 zku\u0161enost proj\u00edt se pod\u00e9l jej\u00ed tyrkysov\u011b zelen\u00e9 vody, kter\u00e1 kontrastovala s b\u00edl\u00fdmi kameny pokr\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00edmi jej\u00ed b\u0159ehy.<\/p>

Architektura<\/h2>\"The<\/a>

Architekturu Podgorice tak\u00e9 nen\u00ed snadn\u00e9 popsat. Je poznamen\u00e1na st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00edmi se re\u017eimy. Nejstar\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st m\u011bsta se li\u0161\u00ed od ostatn\u00edch m\u011bst. Je to t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u010dist\u011b obytn\u00e1 \u010dtvr\u0165 se star\u00fdmi domy a \u00fazk\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami. Sv\u00e9 stopy zde zanechala i doba Osmansk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e \u2013 na\u0161li jsme zde dv\u011b me\u0161ity a malebnou v\u011b\u017e s hodinami. Bylo to pro n\u00e1s velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 srovn\u00e1n\u00ed s m\u00edstem, kde jsme bydleli v Nova Varo\u0161 (\u201enov\u00e9 m\u011bsto\u201c), kde byly ulice stejn\u011b \u0161irok\u00e9 jako v jin\u00fdch evropsk\u00fdch m\u011bstech.<\/p>

B\u011bhem druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky byla Podgorica t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 srovn\u00e1na se zem\u00ed a byla p\u0159estav\u011bna jako jugosl\u00e1vsk\u00e9 m\u011bsto v r\u00e1mci komunistick\u00e9ho bloku (m\u011bsto se tehdy jmenovalo \u201eTitograd\u201c \u2013 podle jm\u00e9na Josifa Broda Tita, prezidenta Jugosl\u00e1vie). Tyto panelov\u00e9 domy byly pro tuto dobu typick\u00e9 a na mnoha m\u00edstech byly nat\u0159eny jasn\u00fdmi barvami, co\u017e m\u011bstu dod\u00e1valo \u017eiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vzhled. Od 90. let za\u010dala m\u011bstsk\u00e1 revoluce a byly postaveny nov\u00e9 budovy z oceli a skla. V t\u00e9to dob\u011b byl tak\u00e9 postaven Most mil\u00e9nia a pravoslavn\u00fd kostel Hristovog Vaskrsenja, kter\u00e9 se staly hlavn\u00edmi dominantami sou\u010dasn\u00e9 Podgorice.<\/p>\"Clock<\/a>

Dal\u0161\u00edm p\u0159\u00edkladem tohoto trendu oceli a skla v Podgorici je ulice George Washingtona, kter\u00e1 je pro jedine\u010dn\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek naprostou nutnost\u00ed. Nico a j\u00e1 jsme tam \u0161li b\u011bhem dne a byli jsme jedin\u00ed lid\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed proch\u00e1zeli kolem luxusn\u00edch, ale pr\u00e1zdn\u00fdch obchod\u016f, jako jsou Emporio Armani, Max Mara a dal\u0161\u00ed. Z reproduktor\u016f zn\u011bl playlist americk\u00fdch v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edch p\u00edsn\u00ed, kter\u00fd se zd\u00e1l spustit v moment\u011b, kdy jsme se p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eili k t\u011bmto budov\u00e1m. Pak, najednou, po p\u00e1r dal\u0161\u00edch kroc\u00edch od t\u00e9to ulice, jsme byli obklopeni lidmi, kte\u0159\u00ed pomalu kr\u00e1\u010deli k okoln\u00edm kancel\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm budov\u00e1m nebo do obl\u00edben\u00e9 restaurace.<\/p>

Takto bych mohl shrnout z\u00e1\u017eitky z Podgorice: m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 je jedine\u010dn\u00e9 a hrd\u00e9 na svou kulturu, kde m\u00edstn\u00ed hudba, j\u00eddlo a up\u0159\u00edmn\u00e1 vst\u0159\u00edcnost p\u0159eva\u017euj\u00ed nad v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomnou z\u00e1padn\u00ed popkulturou. To neznamen\u00e1, \u017ee bychom za\u017eili kulturn\u00ed \u0161ok, v tomto m\u00edst\u011b je toti\u017e hodn\u011b z Evropy. V ka\u017ed\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta jste se mohli c\u00edtit bezpe\u010dn\u011b a pohodln\u011b. M\u00e1m na mysli to, \u017ee d\u016fv\u011bra a \u00facta k vlastn\u00edm tradic\u00edm se tak siln\u011b prom\u00edtly do modern\u00ed reality, \u017ee se staly jej\u00ed pevnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed. Tyto tradice nejsou pouze historick\u00e9, jako v mnoha z\u00e1padn\u00edch zem\u00edch; jsou \u017eiv\u00e9 a p\u0159er\u016fstaj\u00ed do nov\u00fdch forem, p\u0159izp\u016fsobuj\u00ed se modern\u00edmu sv\u011btu kolem.<\/p>\"Podgorica<\/a>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

M\u00edsto, kter\u00e9 se nesna\u017e\u00ed p\u0159edst\u00edrat, \u017ee je n\u011b\u010d\u00edm, \u010d\u00edm nen\u00ed \u2013 t\u0159eba \u201ecool z\u00e1padn\u00ed metropol\u00ed\u201c \u2013, jen aby p\u0159il\u00e1kalo turisty. Je takov\u00e9, jak\u00e9 je \u2013 mal\u00e9, \u00fatuln\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto s p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdmi a srde\u010dn\u00fdmi obyvateli, proto\u017ee takov\u00ed prost\u011b jsou, a ne proto, \u017ee jste cizinec. A \u201eturistick\u00e1\u201c m\u00edsta nejsou to nejlep\u0161\u00ed, co Podgorica m\u016f\u017ee nab\u00eddnout. V […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":109107,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[20666,16450,20673],"tags":[20674,20675],"class_list":["post-121208","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cerna-hora","category-cestovni-pruvodci","category-podgorica-cs","tag-balkan-cs","tag-sunny-cs"],"yoast_head":"\nPodgorica \u2013 ochutn\u00e1vka \u010dernohorsk\u00e9 kultury v modern\u00edm sv\u011bt\u011b<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Tak bych mohl shrnout sv\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky z Podgorice. 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