{"id":120950,"date":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","date_gmt":"2018-01-19T16:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/uncategorized-cs\/cyprus-nicosia\/"},"modified":"2026-04-25T20:15:06","modified_gmt":"2026-04-25T20:15:06","slug":"nikosie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/cs\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/","title":{"rendered":"Nik\u00f3sie"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 ps\u00e1t o Kypru, ani\u017e by to u mnoha Evropan\u016f, a zejm\u00e9na u Kyp\u0159an\u016f, vyvolalo protich\u016fdn\u00e9 emoce \u010di reakce. Hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Nik\u00f3sie je dodnes rozd\u011bleno mezi \u0159eck\u00e9 a tureck\u00e9 Kyp\u0159any a nezd\u00e1 se, \u017ee by se tyto dv\u011b strany mohly v dohledn\u00e9 dob\u011b sjednotit. <\/strong><\/p>

Nico, jako rodil\u00fd Berl\u00ed\u0148an, byl fascinov\u00e1n mo\u017enost\u00ed, \u017ee m\u011bsta Evropsk\u00e9 unie mohou b\u00fdt stejn\u011b rozd\u011blen\u00e1, jak\u00fdm kdysi bylo Berl\u00edn<\/a>. <\/strong><\/p>

Proto musela b\u00fdt Nik\u00f3sie na p\u0159edn\u00edch m\u00edstech na\u0161eho seznamu evropsk\u00fdch hlavn\u00edch m\u011bst, kter\u00e1 chceme nav\u0161t\u00edvit a vyfotografovat. Cht\u011bli jsme objevit historii m\u011bsta a z\u00edskat p\u0159edstavu o tom, jak\u00e9 to je \u017e\u00edt na m\u00edst\u011b rozd\u011blen\u00e9m zd\u00ed.<\/strong><\/p>

Nicosia \u2013 rozd\u011blen\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto<\/strong><\/h2>

\"Panorama<\/a><\/p>

P\u0159ist\u00e1li jsme v ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v noci. P\u0159edem jsme si rezervovali apartm\u00e1n a tak\u00e9 dopravu z leti\u0161t\u011b do m\u011bsta. P\u0159i rezervaci jsme mohli specifikovat t\u00e9mata, na kter\u00e1 by se m\u011bl n\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d specializovat, jako je va\u0159en\u00ed, prohl\u00eddky pam\u00e1tek, historie atd. \u2013 bez legrace.<\/p>

Pan\u00ed, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1s vyzvedla, se uk\u00e1zala b\u00fdt bohat\u00fdm zdrojem informac\u00ed a dobr\u00fdm prvn\u00edm pr\u016fvodcem kyperskou kulturou. Cestou do m\u011bsta n\u00e1m vysv\u011btlovala, co Kyp\u0159an\u00e9 va\u0159\u00ed, jed\u00ed a jak tr\u00e1v\u00ed voln\u00fd \u010das. T\u00e9ma se v\u0161ak zm\u011bnilo, kdy\u017e jsme se p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eili k m\u011bstu a p\u0159ed na\u0161imi o\u010dima se rozprost\u0159el pohled na tureckou vlajku vytvo\u0159enou ze sv\u011btel na jednom z kopc\u016f. Pan\u00ed se t\u00edm pohledem zd\u00e1la b\u00fdt trochu rozru\u0161en\u00e1 a vysv\u011btlila n\u00e1m, \u017ee Turci to d\u011blaj\u00ed, aby provokovali \u0159eck\u00e9 Kyp\u0159any.<\/p>

C\u00edtili jsme, \u017ee se mus\u00edme zeptat, jak\u00e9 to je p\u0159ekro\u010dit hranici Nik\u00f3sie do severn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta. Vysv\u011btlila n\u00e1m, \u017ee to nen\u00ed probl\u00e9m, sta\u010d\u00ed jen pasy. Zeptali jsme se, zda hranici p\u0159ekra\u010duje mnoho lid\u00ed, a ona odpov\u011bd\u011bla, \u017ee to d\u011bl\u00e1 mnoho turist\u016f. Zeptali jsme se, jak \u010dasto ji p\u0159ekra\u010duje ona sama, a ona \u0159ekla, \u017ee t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nikdy. M\u00e1lokter\u00fd \u0159eck\u00fd Kyp\u0159an to d\u011bl\u00e1 nebo c\u00edt\u00ed pot\u0159ebu to d\u011blat. Znali jsme fakta o konfliktu na Kypru, ale d\u00edky na\u0161emu prvn\u00edmu rozhovoru s m\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatelkou jsme zjistili, jak obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9 je toto t\u00e9ma, \u017ee historie st\u00e1le pokra\u010duje a r\u00e1ny je\u0161t\u011b nejsou zcela zahojeny. Navzdory tomuto v\u011bdom\u00ed jsme ud\u011blali prvn\u00ed chybu, kdy\u017e jsme severn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st Nik\u00f3sie nazvali \u201etureckou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed\u201c \u2013 ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st ostrova je toti\u017e pova\u017eov\u00e1na za \u201eokupovanou \u010d\u00e1st\u201c.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Jih Nik\u00f3sie<\/strong><\/h2>

\"The<\/a><\/p>

Ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st Nik\u00f3sie si n\u00e1s z\u00edskala hned prvn\u00ed ve\u010der. Inspirov\u00e1ni na\u0161\u00edm \u0159idi\u010dem, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s vyzvedl na leti\u0161ti, jsme poc\u00edtili nutk\u00e1n\u00ed okam\u017eit\u011b vyzkou\u0161et n\u011bjak\u00e9 \u201emeze\u201c (mal\u00e1 masov\u00e1 nebo vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e1 j\u00eddla, jako jsou sal\u00e1ty, pe\u010den\u011b nebo s\u00fdr halloumi). Na\u0161li jsme malou restauraci kousek od hlavn\u00ed ulice Ledra. Byla to typick\u00e1 kypersk\u00e1 taverna s ve\u010dern\u00ed \u017eivou hudbou. Moc jsme si to tam u\u017eili. A v n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch dnech jsme tento z\u00e1\u017eitek objevov\u00e1n\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00fdch podnik\u016f s meze opakovali.<\/p>

\"Ledra<\/a><\/p>

Dal\u0161\u00ed dva dny jsme se potulovali po ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti Nik\u00f3sie. Zjistili jsme, \u017ee n\u011bkter\u00e9 ulice, zejm\u00e9na historick\u00e1 hlavn\u00ed ulice Ledra, byly chyt\u0159e navr\u017eeny \u2013 nad ulicemi visely oran\u017eov\u00e9 a \u017elut\u00e9 plachty, kter\u00e9 chr\u00e1nily chodce p\u0159ed sluncem, kter\u00e9 mus\u00ed b\u00fdt v letn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch siln\u00e9. Tak\u00e9 jsme si u\u017eili proch\u00e1zku pod\u00e9l ben\u00e1tsk\u00fdch hradeb ve tvaru hv\u011bzdy, kter\u00e9 v roce 1567 postavila Ben\u00e1tsk\u00e1 republika, aby chr\u00e1nila m\u011bsto p\u0159ed Osmanskou \u0159\u00ed\u0161\u00ed (m\u011bsto padlo v roce 1570 po 40 dnech obl\u00e9h\u00e1n\u00ed). Bylo zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 si p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst, \u017ee pot\u00e9, co byl ostrov dobyt Osmanskou \u0159\u00ed\u0161\u00ed, se mnoho Turk\u016f p\u0159est\u011bhovalo do severn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti ostrova. \u0158eck\u00ed Kyp\u0159an\u00e9 \u017eili p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b na jihu ostrova, v okol\u00ed pravoslavn\u00fdch kostel\u016f. Mnoho z t\u011bchto pam\u00e1tek jsme objevili b\u011bhem na\u0161ich proch\u00e1zek po ostrov\u011b.<\/p>

V roce 1878 p\u0159e\u0161el Kypr z rukou osmansk\u00fdch vl\u00e1dc\u016f pod britskou spr\u00e1vu. Od t\u00e9 doby doch\u00e1zelo k siln\u00fdm protest\u016fm Kyp\u0159an\u016f proti britsk\u00e9 nadvl\u00e1d\u011b, kter\u00e1 skon\u010dila d\u00edky bojovn\u00edk\u016fm EOKA. Na pam\u00e1tku tohoto osvobozen\u00ed stoj\u00ed pobl\u00ed\u017e star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk svobody, zvan\u00fd \u201eEleftheria Monument\u201c, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m nah\u00e1n\u011bl hus\u00ed k\u016f\u017ei a st\u00e1li jsme u n\u011bj asi hodinu. Prost\u011b jsme nemohli p\u0159estat z\u00edrat na expresivn\u00ed p\u00f3zy Svobody, bojovn\u00edk\u016f EOKA a Kyp\u0159an\u016f osvobozen\u00fdch z \u201ev\u011bzen\u00ed\u201c.<\/p>

V roce 1960 se Nik\u00f3sie stala hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem Kypersk\u00e9 republiky, ale m\u00edr netrval dlouho. V roce 1963 navrhli \u0159eckokyp\u0159an\u00e9 zm\u011bnu \u00fastavy, kterou tureckokyp\u0159an\u00e9 nep\u0159ijali. N\u00e1sledovalo mnoho n\u00e1siln\u00fdch incident\u016f a m\u011bsto muselo b\u00fdt rozd\u011bleno. Hranice byla pojmenov\u00e1na \u201eZelen\u00e1 linie\u201c podle barvy pera, kter\u00fdm jeden \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edk OSN nakreslil na map\u011b Kypru linii p\u0159\u00edm\u011b\u0159\u00ed. V roce 1974 se \u0159eckokyp\u0159an\u00e9 pokusili o znovusjednocen\u00ed ostrova, ale m\u00edsto toho vyvolali tureckou invazi na sever. O rok pozd\u011bji vyhl\u00e1sili tureckokyp\u0159an\u00e9 Tureck\u00fd federativn\u00ed st\u00e1t Kypr jako svou zemi.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>

Proch\u00e1zka pod\u00e9l a p\u0159es \u201eZelenou linii\u201c na severn\u00ed Kypr<\/strong><\/h2>

\"A<\/a><\/p>

Kdy\u017e jsme se proch\u00e1zeli po ji\u017en\u00ed Nik\u00f3sii, \u201eZelenou linii\u201c jsme vid\u011bli \u010dasto. A poka\u017ed\u00e9 n\u00e1m z toho b\u011bhal mr\u00e1z po z\u00e1dech. Hranice nevypad\u00e1 v r\u016fzn\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1stech m\u011bsta stejn\u011b. N\u011bkdy je to louka pln\u00e1 k\u0159ehk\u00fdch, mal\u00fdch, \u017elut\u00fdch kv\u011btin, obklopen\u00e1 z\u00e1tarasy. N\u011bkdy vede hranice pod\u00e9l budov, kter\u00e9 jsou dnes ji\u017e v ruin\u00e1ch. Jednou jsme dokonce vid\u011bli kostel, jeho\u017e zadn\u00ed dve\u0159e hrani\u010d\u00ed se severem.<\/p>

Mo\u017en\u00e1 si mysl\u00edte, \u017ee kdy\u017e p\u0159ekro\u010d\u00edte hranici do \u201eLefko\u0161e\u201c (jak Turci naz\u00fdvaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto), bude to \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e9 ne\u017e v ji\u017en\u00ed Nik\u00f3sii. Ale nen\u00ed. Lid\u00e9 mluv\u00ed jin\u00fdm jazykem, je tam v\u00edce me\u0161it ne\u017e pravoslavn\u00fdch kostel\u016f, ale \u017eivot plyne stejn\u011b jako na jihu. V jednom parku p\u0159\u00edmo na hranici si d\u011bti hr\u00e1ly a sm\u00e1ly se, jako by si plot\u016f ani nev\u0161imly. Nico a j\u00e1 si nepamatujeme mnoho hranic, kter\u00e9 by byly tak dob\u0159e chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00e9, dalo by se \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee jsme byli \u201ed\u011bti Schengenu\u201c.
\nNav\u0161t\u00edvili jsme tr\u017en\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, kter\u00e9 bylo pln\u00e9 lid\u00ed a turist\u016f. Dalo se tam koupit ta\u0161ku s v\u00fdrobky Adidas nebo Michael Kors za pouh\u00fdch 20 \u20ac, ale krom\u011b toho na tomto m\u00edst\u011b nebylo nic neobvykl\u00e9ho. U\u017eili jsme si tak\u00e9 dlouhou proch\u00e1zku po okol\u00ed a karavann\u00ed stanici B\u00fcy\u00fck Han (Velk\u00fd hostinec), kter\u00e1 byla postavena v roce 1572 jako hotel pro cestovatele, ale dnes je to m\u00edsto s obchody s ru\u010dn\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00fdm zbo\u017e\u00edm, suven\u00fdry a restauracemi. To, co n\u00e1s okouzlilo a dod\u00e1v\u00e1 tomuto m\u00edstu charakter, byly barevn\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ivky, kter\u00e9 se vinou po z\u00e1bradl\u00edch a lavi\u010dk\u00e1ch na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed uvnit\u0159. Vyrobily je \u0159eck\u00e9 a kypersk\u00e9 \u017eeny, aby tak vyj\u00e1d\u0159ily spojen\u00ed mezi \u017eenami ze severu a jihu Nik\u00f3sie.<\/p>

\"B\u00fcy\u00fck<\/p>

V Nik\u00f3sii n\u00e1s ani na chv\u00edli neopustila jist\u00e1 melancholie, ale v\u011bd\u011bli jsme, jak\u00fd je n\u00e1\u0161 c\u00edl. Cht\u011bli jsme na na\u0161ich fotografi\u00edch uk\u00e1zat kr\u00e1su obou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed m\u011bsta rozd\u011blen\u00e9ho spole\u010dnou zd\u00ed, navzdory politick\u00e9 situaci. Slune\u010dn\u00ed paprsky odpoledne i r\u00e1no h\u0159ej\u00ed stejn\u011b, a\u0165 u\u017e jste na ulici Ledra na jihu, nebo v B\u00fcy\u00fck Han na severu. V\u011b\u0159\u00edme, \u017ee ob\u011b m\u00edsta stoj\u00ed za to uk\u00e1zat v tom nejlep\u0161\u00edm sv\u011btle a \u017ee ob\u011b odli\u0161n\u00e9 kultury si zaslou\u017e\u00ed respekt. Mo\u017en\u00e1 se li\u0161\u00ed, mo\u017en\u00e1 tu st\u00e1le p\u0159etrv\u00e1v\u00e1 smutek a hn\u011bv, ale \u017eivot jde d\u00e1l \u2013 d\u011bti si hraj\u00ed a usm\u00edvaj\u00ed se, lid\u00e9 chod\u00ed do pr\u00e1ce a turist\u00e9 se jen tak proch\u00e1zej\u00ed. Nesm\u011bli jsme fotit Zelenou linii \u2013 ale mo\u017en\u00e1 to tak bylo lep\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 ps\u00e1t o Kypru, ani\u017e by to u mnoha Evropan\u016f, a zejm\u00e9na u Kyp\u0159an\u016f, vyvolalo protich\u016fdn\u00e9 emoce \u010di reakce. Hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Nik\u00f3sie je dodnes rozd\u011bleno mezi \u0159eck\u00e9 a tureck\u00e9 Kyp\u0159any a nezd\u00e1 se, \u017ee by se tyto dv\u011b strany mohly v dohledn\u00e9 dob\u011b sjednotit. Nico, jako rodil\u00fd Berl\u00ed\u0148an, byl fascinov\u00e1n mo\u017enost\u00ed, \u017ee m\u011bsta Evropsk\u00e9 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":109126,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_templately_pack_id":"","_templately_imported_at":"","_templately_source":"","_templately_import_session_id":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[16450,20653,20654],"tags":[20656,20658,20657,20655],"class_list":["post-120950","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cestovni-pruvodci","category-kypr","category-nikosie","tag-hotel-cs","tag-meze-cs","tag-stena-cs","tag-ulice"],"yoast_head":"\nNik\u00f3sie \u2013 kypersk\u00e9 m\u011bsto rozd\u011blen\u00e9 zd\u00ed<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Nico, jako rodil\u00fd Berl\u00ed\u0148an, byl fascinov\u00e1n t\u00edm, \u017ee se m\u011bsto v Evrop\u011b m\u016f\u017ee rozd\u011blit tak, jak tomu kdysi bylo v Berl\u00edn\u011b. Proto musela b\u00fdt Nik\u00f3sie na na\u0161em seznamu m\u00edst k n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b na p\u0159edn\u00edch p\u0159\u00ed\u010dk\u00e1ch. Cht\u011bli jsme poznat historii m\u011bsta a za\u017e\u00edt na vlastn\u00ed k\u016f\u017ei, jak\u00e9 to je \u017e\u00edt na m\u00edst\u011b rozd\u011blen\u00e9m zd\u00ed.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sumfinity.com\/cs\/travel\/cyprus-nicosia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"cs_CZ\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Nik\u00f3sie\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Nico, jako rodil\u00fd Berl\u00ed\u0148an, byl fascinov\u00e1n t\u00edm, \u017ee se m\u011bsto v Evrop\u011b m\u016f\u017ee rozd\u011blit tak, jak tomu kdysi bylo v Berl\u00edn\u011b. 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